FEBRUARY 2020 61
clockwise from
below: Well-
deserved revelry at
the lodge bar after
a long day on the
slopes; the dining
room has killer
views over the
mountains and the
Columbia River
below; guides take
out intimate groups
of four people at a
time to hit the runs.Merlot-braised elk short ribs with polenta, grilled kale, carrots,
pickled fennel, and huckleberry demi-glace; and spiced steelhead
trout accompanied by roasted spaghetti squash, greens, candied
beet coulis, black rice, and garlic flakes. To create dishes like
these, Pageau’s team sources heritage meats from ranches and
farms between Calgary and Vancouver—all flown in fresh with
each new set of guests. Overwintered vegetables come from Mara
Valley Produce, a small farm more than 65 miles southwest of
the lodge in the considerably warmer Okanagan region. “Over
the winter, we’ll use all different techniques, like fermentation
and preservation, to transform our vegetables,” says Pageau. “The
big thing here is the return to slow food, to Canadian rustic.” For
fresh greens like baby kale, sprouts, and herbs, there’s a small
greenhouse in the back of the kitchen.The team isn’t idle in the summer, either. The hyperlocal-
ism extends to making jams, spreads, and fruit vinegars from
huckleberries, blueberries, and raspberries picked from the
slopes above the lodge. (Pageau’s wild blueberry, lemon, and
cinnamon jam has become a beloved breakfast staple.)
What accounts for Pageau’s commitment to working with
local products in such a challenging setting? “Of course there’s
the taste reason behind it,” he says. “But we’re also supporting
local people who are treating animals well and growing veg-
etables without pesticides. We want to showcase that even given
Mica’s remoteness, we can offer an amazing culinary experience
with food that comes from right here in British Columbia. We’re
demonstrating that it can be done.” (Packages from $6,800 perPHOTOGRAPHY: (OPPOSITE AND TOP LEFT) MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON, (BOTTOM AND TOP RIGHT) BLAKE JORGENSON person, micaheli.com)