76 FEBRUARY 2020
THE HISTORY OF ARACHIS HYPOGAEA, the peanut, originally domesticated in South
America, became extremely Black almost immediately upon its introduction to West
and Central Africa in the 1500s, during the early period of the transatlantic slave
trade. The peanut was kissing cousin to the Bamana groundnut, a native edible that
also produced shelled legumes in the ground. More prolific and versatile, used for
everything from savory sauces to confections, the peanut spread and became a staple
and, in time, crossed to North America on a reverse trip.
Called goobers or gooba peas by some, pindars by others, colloquial names for the
peanut in the early American South had an Angolan connection, pointing to a fairly
early introduction. Many enslaved Africans grew them in their provision gardens. In
time the crop would know crossover appeal; by the 1830s and ’40s, there were peanut
plantations exporting the snack to the urban North, and by the Civil War, soldiers were
singing, “Goodness, how delicious, eating goober peas.” Boiled and roasted peanuts,
peanut candy, peanut soup, and many other delicacies would join numerous confections,
pies, cakes, and ice cream flavors laden with the peanut. And although he was not the
inventor of the ancient preparation of peanut butter as many have thought, nobody
popularized the peanut and its 300-plus uses more than Dr. George Washington Carver.
—Michael W. Twitty is a food writer, historical interpreter, and culinary historian.(^1) / (^3) cup unsalted roasted peanuts
3 Tbsp. white miso (such as Miso
Master Organic Mellow White)
(^1) / 4 tsp. lemon zest plus 3 (^1) / 2 tsp. fresh
lemon juice, divided
1 tsp. minced garlic
Flaky sea salt, to taste
- Preheat oven to 450°F with oven rack in
lowest position. Toss together squash, 2
tablespoons oil,^1 / 2 teaspoon kosher salt,
and^1 / 4 teaspoon pepper on a rimmed bak-
ing sheet. Spread in a single layer. Roast
in preheated oven on lowest rack until
squash is tender and browned, 26 to 30
minutes, flipping squash after 18 minutes. - Meanwhile, bring 8 cups water to a
boil in a medium saucepan over high, and
fill a bowl with ice water. Stir in 1 table-
spoon kosher salt to the boiling water.
Add collard greens; cook until tender and
bright green, about 2 minutes. Transfer
collard greens to ice water; let cool 2 min-
utes. Drain and pat greens completely
dry; set aside.
ROASTED SQUASH WEDGES WITH
COLLARD-PEANUT PESTO
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 30 MIN; SERVES 6
Blanching and shocking the collards pre-
serves their vibrant color in the pesto and
removes the greens’ slight bitter edge.
Use best-quality peanuts; their toasty,
nutty flavor is the foundation of the
creamy pesto, which balances the sweet,
tender squash. No need to peel the acorn
squash beforehand; their skin becomes
soft when roasted.2 medium acorn squash, stemmed,
halved lengthwise, seeded, and
sliced crosswise into 1-inch-thick
half-moons(^1) / 2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
(^1) / 2 tsp. black pepper, divided
8 cups water
2 cups loosely packed chopped
stemmed collard greens
A LONG
JOURNEY HOME
PEANUTS
wo rd s b y
MICHAEL W. TWITTYrecipe by
BRYANT TERRY- Cook peanuts in a small skillet over
medium, stirring often, until fragrant, 4 to
5 minutes. Set aside; let cool 5 minutes. - Place greens, peanuts, miso, lemon
juice, and garlic in a food processor; pulse
until a chunky paste forms, about 10
times. With food processor running, grad-
ually stream in remaining^1 / 2 cup oil until
well combined, about 20 seconds. Add
remaining^1 / 2 teaspoon kosher salt and
remaining^1 / 4 teaspoon pepper; pulse to
incorporate, about 3 times. Spoon into a
small serving bowl. - Arrange roasted squash on a serving
platter; sprinkle with lemon zest, and gar-
nish with flaky sea salt. Serve with pesto.
MAKE AHEAD Pour a thin layer of olive oil
over the pesto, cover, and refrigerate up
to 1 week.
WINE Earthy, nutty aged white: 2009
Lopez de Heredia Viña Gravonia Crianza
Blanco
NOTE Substitute any hard winter squash,
such as butternut or delicata, here.