9292 MARCHMARCH 2019 2019
Shrimp and Grits with Mustard
Seed Chowchow
PHOTO P. 48
TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN; SERVES 4At Toups South in New Orleans, Isaac
Toups uses Bellegarde’s fresh-milled grits,
which have a buttered popcorn flavor and
red-flecked kernels that add gorgeous
color to this dish. The chowchow can be
made up to a week in advance.1 lb. peeled and deveined tail-on raw
large shrimp
2 tsp. Cajun seasoning (such as Tony
Chachere’s)
4 cups whole milk
1 / 2 cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), divided
1 cup uncooked freshly ground grits
(such as Bellegarde Heirloom Grits)
31 / 4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
3 /^4 cup apple cider vinegar
3 / 4 cup water
1 / 4 cup granulated sugar
1 / 4 cup yellow mustard seeds
1 medium-size (8-oz.) green tomato,
cut into^1 / 2 -inch pieces
1 / 2 cup finely chopped red bell pepper
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 / 4 cup diagonally sliced scallion- Preheat oven to 200°F. Toss together
shrimp and Cajun seasoning in a medium
bowl. Cover; refrigerate until ready to use. - Place milk and^1 / 4 cup butter in a
medium ovenproof saucepan. Bring to a
vigorous simmer over medium, stirring
occasionally. Gradually add grits, whisk-
ing constantly. Reduce heat to medium-
low; cook, whisking constantly, until
mixture thickens slightly and grits are
evenly suspended in milk, about 6 min-
utes. Cover saucepan; transfer to pre-
heated oven. Bake until grits are tender, 1
hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes. Remove
from oven; stir in 2 teaspoons salt and
remaining^1 / 4 cup butter. Cover to keep
warm until ready to use. - Meanwhile, stir together vinegar,^3 / 4 cup
water, sugar, and remaining 1^1 / 4 teaspoons
salt in a saucepan; bring to a boil over high.
Stir in mustard seeds. Reduce heat to
medium-low; simmer, stirring occasion-
ally, until seeds are tender, about 35 min-
utes. Add tomato and bell pepper; cook,
stirring occasionally, until vegetables are
tender and mixture has thickened, 14 to
16 minutes. Remove from heat.- Remove shrimp from refrigerator. Heat
oil in a large cast-iron skillet over high until
smoking. Add shrimp to skillet in a single
layer; cook until opaque and lightly
charred, about 1 minute and 30 seconds
per side. To serve, divide grits among 4
bowls. Top evenly with shrimp and chow-
chow; sprinkle with sliced scallion.
WINE Unoaked Oregon Chardonnay: 2016
Chehalem Inox
Bellegarde Bakery Ciabatta
PHOTO P. 47
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 12 HR 40 MIN
MAKES 4 (1-POUND) LOAVESUsing active dry yeast instead of a sour-
dough starter lets the flavor of the freshly
milled flour come through. Source flour
from Bellegarde Bakery, or seek out local
varieties of red and white wheat.5 cups bread flour (such as King
Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour)
(about 21^1 / 4 oz.), plus more for work
surface
21 /^2 cups freshly ground white whole-
wheat flour (such as Bellegarde
White Wheat) (about 10^3 / 4 oz.)
11 /^2 cups freshly ground red whole-
wheat flour (such as Bellegarde
Organic Wheat) (about 6^1 / 4 oz.)
2 tsp. active dry yeast
41 / 4 cups lukewarm water (78°F),
divided
3 Tbsp. olive oil or pecan oil
2 Tbsp. fine sea salt
Cooking spray- Place bread flour, whole-wheat flours,
yeast, and 3^1 / 2 cups warm water in a large
bowl. Using your hand as a claw, stir until
dough forms a shaggy mass and no bits
of dry flour remain. Cover bowl with a
towel; let stand 20 minutes. - Add oil, salt, and remaining^3 / 4 cup
warm water to dough mixture; mix with
hands until thoroughly incorporated and
dough becomes cohesive (do not knead).
Cover with a towel; let stand 15 minutes. - Using wet hands, stretch and fold
dough over itself in bowl 3 times, rotating
bowl a third turn with each fold. Cover; let
stand 15 minutes. Repeat process 3 times,
totaling 4 folding cycles over 1 hour.
4. Lightly coat a 10- x 8-inch food-safe
rectangular plastic bin or large, deep tur-
key roasting pan with cooking spray.
Transfer dough to bin. Cover with plastic
wrap; chill 8 hours or overnight.
5. Preheat oven to 550°F with a baking
stone in lower third position of oven. Turn
dough out onto a heavily floured surface,
maintaining rectangular shape of dough
and handling as little as possible. Dust top
of dough generously with flour; cut into 4
equal rectangles (about 5 x 4 inches each)
using a bench scraper. Generously flour a
large linen kitchen towel (not terry cloth).
Gently stretch each dough rectangle by
hand into a roughly 12- x 5-inch rectangle.
Place stretched dough rectangles on
towel, pulling up small folds of cloth
between each rectangle to keep dough
separated. Cover dough rectangles with
outer edges of towel or with a separate
floured towel if necessary; let dough proof
until slightly increased in volume, 45 min-
utes to 1 hour.
6. Gently invert 2 dough rectangles onto
an unrimmed baking sheet lined with
parchment paper. Slide parchment paper
with dough onto preheated baking stone
in oven. Reduce oven temperature to
500°F; bake until loaves are golden brown
and a thermometer inserted in center of
loaves registers 205°F, 16 to 20 minutes.
Transfer baked loaves to a wire rack.
Increase oven temperature to 550°F.
Once temperature has returned to 550°F,
repeat process with remaining 2 dough
rectangles. Let loaves cool completely on
wire rack; slice and serve.
Spicy Crab Spaghetti
PHOTO P. 49
TOTAL 35 MIN; SERVES 4Ryan Prewitt of Pêche restaurant in New
Orleans makes a light, flavorful pasta
sauce with jalapeños and crab, which
coats the pasta without masking the flavor
of the freshly ground grain in the noodles.4 qt. water
1 /^4 cup plus^1 /^4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
3 / 4 lb. Fresh Whole-Wheat Spaghetti
(recipe follows) or other fresh
spaghetti, divided
1 / 4 cup unsalted butter (2 oz.), sliced
into 4 (1-Tbsp.) pieces, divided
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
1 / 2 medium jalapeño, unseeded and
thinly sliced, divided
1 / 2 lb. fresh jumbo lump crabmeat,
drained and picked over
2 Tbsp. dry white wineTHE MILLER from p. 51