Food & Wine USA - (03)March 2020

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20 MARCH 2020


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THE FIRST THING YOU NOTICE about Pardis Stitt is how her eyes
read the room. As she glides through Highlands Bar & Grill,
Bottega, and Chez Fonfon in Birmingham, Alabama, her eyes
drink in every detail, assimilating data, informing her most
crucial next moves. Ambassador, choreographer, coach, coun-
selor—Pardis plays many roles in the restaurants she co-owns
with her husband, James Beard Award–winning chef Frank
Stitt. But while Frank focuses his attention on what’s on the
plate, Pardis nurtures and protects something every bit as
nuanced and intentional: the welcoming ambience that is the
beating heart of their small-but-mighty restaurant dynasty.
Here, she shares how she creates a team of A-level hosts.

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The Art of Hospitality

Creating the perfect guest experience

starts with awareness.

By Josh Miller

Pardis Stitt,
co-owner of
Highlands Bar
& Grill and
three other
restaurants in
Birmingham,
Alabama

WHAT DOES HOSPITALITY


MEAN TO YOU?


Hospitality isn’t something I
spend a lot of time strategizing
about; it’s more of a feeling—
and empathy and respect are at
the heart of it. You don’t know
what someone’s story is when
they walk in the door. I may be
a little extremist, but you don’t
know if a person has just been
served divorce papers, or their
mother just had a heart attack.
Having empathy for your guests
allows you to dig deep and take
care of them.

HOW DO YOU WANT GUESTS
TO FEEL WHEN THEY WALK
INTO YOUR DINING ROOMS?
We want to be a refuge from
whatever’s going on outside
our doors. If we can ease any
anxiety as soon as they arrive
with eye contact and a smile,
we all win. Although language
is an integral part of how we
communicate, so much of how
we relate to others is through
nonverbal communication. I
want guests to feel acknowl-
edged and looked after from the
moment they walk in.

WHEN YOUR TEAM DOES
FALL SHORT, HOW DO YOU
HANDLE IT?
It’s not all sugarplums and
shaved truffles in our world.
Every member of our dining
room staff cross-trains at each
position—kitchen, front of
house, bar, and serving—but
we’re human, and mistakes
and missteps happen. When
something goes wrong or a
guest is upset, we do everything
we can to make it right before
they walk out the door. The
staff works to find a solution
right away. You have to take
ego out of it and not take it
personally.

WHAT’S ESSENTIAL TO


DELIVERING THAT


EXPERIENCE?


Dinner service is similar to
putting on a play, where the
lights go down and the curtain
goes up. The way we walk
through our dining rooms
contributes to that energy—
eyes open, alert, aware of our
surroundings, and having a
sense of urgency. When I’m
training someone, I watch them
look around the dining room
and ask them what they see. If
they flounder a bit, I’ll tell them
what I see: I see the person at
table 12, who seems unsure
about the dish that’s been put
in front of them. I see there’s a
wrinkle in the tablecloth over at
table 15; over at the bar, there’s
a guest trying to get the bar-
tender’s attention, but his back
is turned. You have to be aware
at all times; you can’t let your
guard down, ever.

WHAT’S YOUR BIGGEST
STAFFING CHALLENGE?
Instilling a sense of dedication
and commitment in our staff to
physically repeat our mission
every day, every shift. With 170
employees, I am a supervisor,
mama, coach, and teacher—
guiding our crew through best
practices and following through
on our vision for the restau-
rants. But sometimes it’s the
small things. Lately, I’ve been
astounded by the number of
staff members who have said
they have never used an iron
before. I think, “What planet
are you from?” It’s a very dif-
ferent time, and we’re learning
to adjust our expectations and
train accordingly.

WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR IN A
POTENTIAL TEAM MEMBER?
Enthusiasm, kindness, curiosity,
and a good handshake.
PH

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