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34 MARCH 2020
CHEF LENA CIARDULLO, of New York’s Union
Square Cafe, advocates for whole-animal
butchery and loves creative and simple
methods that highlight each cut’s flavor.
One of her favorite cuts is the bone-in rack
of pork, which she seasons then roasts over
a bed of aromatics. “My friends always ask
me what makes this dish so great. They
don’t believe me when I say to just season it
really generously at least a day before cook-
ing,” she says. After studying her technique
at the restaurant, we returned to the F&W
test kitchen to figure out the best way to
re-create it at home.
First, source the best bone-in pork loin
available; even pre-seasoning can’t hide
low-quality meat. Look for heritage breeds,
like Berkshire. A whole bone-in loin in-
cludes seven or eight rib bones running
across the loin and will serve eight. If cook-
ing for fewer people, order approximately
one pound, typically one rib, per person.
(Any leftovers can be thinly sliced for sand-
wiches.) Order the cut untrimmed, but be
sure to specify to your butcher that the
chine bone be removed, which requires a
saw. The chine bone runs lengthwise along
the loin and is attached to the bones; it can’t
be removed with a knife and will hinder
carving the gorgeous finished roast.
Finally, and most important, build in
enough time to prepare the pork one to
three days ahead. The final result will be far
more delicious than pork that hasn’t been
expertly butchered (by you, using the tech-
nique at right) and pre-seasoned. When
you’re ready to roast, you can take it straight
from fridge to oven. At home, Ciardullo
keeps it simple, seasoning the pork with a
dry brine of salt and pepper and roasting it
over a bed of white mirepoix in lieu of a
rack. “The delicious rendered pork fat will
mingle with the sweet, slow-cooked veg-
etables, making for a great accompaniment
to the carved centerpiece roast,” she says.
Just add polenta! —MARY-FRANCES HECK
TRIM, TIE, SALT, ROAST
PREP THE LOIN
At least 1 day and up to 3 days before serv-
ing, place pork on a cutting board; pat dry
with paper towels. Have a sharp, thin knife
and butcher’s twine at the ready.
1
FRENCH THE RACK
Score a line in membrane across exposed
portion of bones (about 1 inch from tips of
bones and running the length of the loin).
Slice down the rib bones, make a U-turn at
the loin, and slice up the next rib. Repeat to
remove all meat between exposed rib bones.
2 3
TRIM THE LOIN
About 1 inch from tips of rib bones, make
a crosswise incision the length of the loin,
pressing the knife until it scrapes the bones.
Turn the knife, and use a filleting motion to
cut a strip of belly from bones. Cut belly strip
crosswise into 1-inch pieces; reserve.
Italian Bone-In Pork Loin
ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR, PLUS 12 HR
REFRIGERATION; SERVES 8
1 (8-lb.) bone-in pork loin, chine
bone removed
4 large shallots, halved lengthwise
2 fennel bulbs, cored, cut into
eighths, and separated into
1-inch petals; fronds reserved
1 yellow onion, cored, cut into
eighths, and separated into
1-inch petals
1 garlic head, halved crosswise
8 large rosemary sprigs
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. black pepper
1 cup dry white wine
Easy Polenta (recipe p. 36), for
serving
TIE THE ROAST
To ensure that the fat cap remains over the
loin and bastes it as it roasts—and so the meat
maintains a uniform shape for even cooking—
tie the roast, looping twine between bones.
5
REMOVE THE MEMBRANE
On the membrane side of exposed rib bones,
make a vertical slit in membrane to expose
bones beneath. Use a towel to grip mem-
brane and remove as much as possible.
4
