MARCH 2020 97
cream, beating until mixture is light and
fluffy, about 1 minute, stopping to scrape
sides of bowl as needed.- If needed, carefully loosen edges of tart
with a small knife. Invert tart onto a serv-
ing platter. Serve immediately with
whipped goat cheese.
MAKE AHEAD The shallots and pears can
be roasted up to 4 hours in advance. Pie
dough can be rolled out up to 6 hours in
advance and chilled between sheets of
parchment paper.
Miso-Tofu Hot Pot with Ramen
PHOTO P. 91
TOTAL 40 MIN; SERVES 2A soothing hot pot is the perfect excuse to
set out ingredients and casually dine at
the table. Although this recipe can be exe-
cuted at the stove, donabe hot pot is tradi-
tionally prepared on a portable burner at
the table. Cook the tofu and vegetables
first, then soak up the delicious broth with
chewy ramen noodles as a second course.1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
1 garlic clove, grated
2 tsp. grated peeled fresh ginger
1 bunch scallions, white parts sliced,
green parts thinly diagonally sliced,
for garnish
2 tsp. chile bean sauce (toban djan)
(such as Lee Kum Kee)(^1) / 4 cup junmai sake (such as Hakushika
Junmai Yamadanishiki)
2 Tbsp. white miso
4 cups warm Shiitake Dashi (recipe
follows), divided
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
5 large Napa cabbage leaves, cut into
11 /^2 -inch pieces
3 oz. white beech mushrooms,
trimmed and separated into
clusters
2 medium carrots, peeled (using a
julienne peeler, if desired) and
thinly diagonally sliced
7 oz. firm silken tofu, drained and cut
into 4 (^1 / 2 -inch-thick) slabs
Coarsely ground toasted sesame
seeds, chile oil, kurozu (Japanese
black vinegar), and Quick-Pickled
Shiitakes (recipe follows), for
serving
5 oz. fresh or thawed frozen ramen
noodles (such as Sun Noodle),
cooked according to package
directions
- Heat sesame oil in a 3-quart classic-
style donabe over medium. Add garlic,
ginger, and white scallion pieces. Cook,
stirring constantly, until softened and
add to a cheese board. While this recipe is
designed for a flameware pan, it can be
made in a metal skillet—just monitor the
caramel closely.
2 medium-size firm green Anjou
pears, peeled and cored
11 / 4 lb. torpedo or other large shallots,
peeled and halved through root
end, root ends trimmed
2 Tbsp. olive oil
21 / 4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 tsp. black pepper, divided
(^1) / 2 cup granulated sugar
6 Tbsp. Banyuls wine vinegar or
sherry vinegar, divided
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 tsp. grated lemon zest
12 oz. homemade or store-bought pie
dough, rolled^1 / 4 -inch thick and
trimmed into an 11^1 / 2 -inch round,
chilled
1 (8-oz.) goat cheese log, softened
3 Tbsp. chilled heavy whipping cream
- Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut pears
lengthwise into sixths. Toss together
pears, shallots, olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt,
and^3 / 4 teaspoon pepper on a rimmed bak-
ing sheet. Spread in a single layer, with
shallots cut sides up. Bake in preheated
oven until shallots and pears are just ten-
der, about 25 minutes. Set aside. - Combine sugar and 2 tablespoons vin-
egar in a 2-quart (11-inch) ceramic tarte
Tatin pan over low, and cook, without stir-
ring, swirling pan occasionally, until mix-
ture is light golden brown, 12 to 15
minutes. Increase heat to medium-low,
and swirl in butter, 1 teaspoon salt, and
remaining^1 / 4 cup vinegar. Continue cook-
ing caramel, stirring often with a wooden
spoon, until very thick, foamy, and amber
colored, 7 to 9 minutes. Remove from
heat. - Immediately arrange shallots, cut sides
down, in a single layer across caramel in
bottom of pan. Nestle pear slices, cut
sides down, in any empty spaces. (It will
be a tight fit; bottom of pan should be
packed.) Sprinkle with lemon zest. Prick
pie dough in several places with a fork.
Place dough over pear-shallot mixture,
tucking edges into pan so it fits snugly
around mixture. Bake in preheated oven
until golden brown, 28 to 32 minutes. Let
cool in pan 20 minutes. - Beat goat cheese, remaining^1 / 4 tea-
spoon salt, and remaining^1 / 4 teaspoon
pepper in bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
a paddle attachment on medium-high
speed until smooth and creamy, about 3
minutes. With mixer running on medium-
high speed, gradually stream in heavy
fragrant, about 2 minutes. Push mixture
to 1 side of pot, and add chile bean sauce
to empty side. Cook, stirring constantly,
until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in
sake, incorporating garlic, ginger, and
white scallion pieces; cook 1 minute.
Whisk together miso and^1 / 4 cup shiitake
dashi in a small bowl until smooth; set
aside. Stir soy sauce and remaining 3^3 / 4
cups shiitake dashi into pot. Cover and
bring to a simmer over medium-low.- Uncover and stir in cabbage, mush-
rooms, and carrots. Add tofu. Cover and
cook until tofu is heated through and veg-
etables are crisp-tender, 4 to 5 minutes.
Stir in miso mixture. Using a spider or
slotted spoon, divide vegetables and tofu
between 2 serving bowls (about 2 cups
each). Ladle about 1 cup of broth into
each bowl; reserve remaining broth in
donabe. Garnish with ground sesame
seeds, chile oil, kurozu, quick-pickled shii-
takes, and green scallion pieces. - Reheat remaining broth (about 1^1 / 2
cups) in donabe over medium-low until
steaming. Add ramen to broth; let stand
until heated through. Serve as second
course with hot pot.
SAKE Silky, rich sake: Hakkaisan Honjozo
NOTE Source chile bean sauce, junmai
sake, and kurozu at Japanese grocery
stores.
Shiitake Dashi
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 25 MIN
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPSA gentle steep is the best way to coax the
sweet umami–without any bitter notes–
from the kombu and shiitakes in this all-
purpose dashi.6 cups water
11 / 2 oz. dried shiitake mushroom caps
(about 2^1 / 2 cups, or 22 caps), rinsed
well
1 oz. dried kombu (about 1 [9-inch]
square, halved)
1 oz. dried smoked bonito flakes
(katsuobushi) (about 3 cups)
(optional)- Combine 6 cups water, shiitakes, and
kombu in a 3-quart classic-style donabe.
Let stand for 30 minutes. - Heat mixture, uncovered, over
medium-low until steaming but not sim-
mering (about 140°F), about 10 minutes.
Cook 15 minutes, adjusting heat as
needed to prevent simmering. Using a
slotted spoon or spider, remove and dis-
card kombu. - Stir in dried smoked bonito flakes, if
using, and continue cooking over