100 MAY 2020
A VISIT TO
VILNIUS
F LY
There are no direct flights
from the U.S. to Lithuania,
but American Airlines, Brit-
ish Airways, Finnair, and
KLM all offer efficient
connecting flights through
various European cities.STAY
HOTEL PACAI
This former mansion of the
Grand Duchy of Lithuania
has been restored, blending
historic charm with modern
touches. (Rooms from $168,
hotelpacai.com)E AT
MARKETS
Head to the Ty m o Tu r g u s
farmers market to get a
sense of Lithuania’s bounty
(Thursdays from 10 a.m. to
3:30 p.m.; tymoturgelis.lt).
The indoor Halės Market
(halesturgaviete.lt/en), the
city’s oldest and trendiest, is
open daily except Mondays.SWEET ROOT
Intensely seasonal, local,
whimsical fine dining can be
found in the heart of bohe-
mian Vilnius. (sweetroot.lt)ERTLIO NAMAS
Dinner and a history lesson
are all rolled into one in the
most delightful of dining
rooms. (ertlionamas.lt/en)ŠNEKUTIS
For a taste of old-school
Vilnius, this rustic bar is a
must-visit. (jususnekutis.lt)I bump into Agnė Marcinauskaitė, co-owner of the restaurant Sweet Root. She’s
catching up with stall holders while snacking on a small tray of odd-looking elongated
blueberries. They’re called haskap berries and taste like the love child of a raspberry and
an apple. They’re only available for a short period of time (from mid-June to mid-July),
as is the case with many of the intensely seasonal ingredients Sweet Root sources and
showcases throughout the year. Eating there reminds me of the life-changing meal I had
at Noma in 2006; a meal of locally foraged food requires clever, considered technique
to make those ingredients sing, and Sweet Root executes this with perfect precision.
From the market, I walk across town to Ertlio Namas, where you can dine on a set
historical menu inspired by the countries that have, at some point in time,
influenced Lithuanian cuisine. Chef Tomas Rimydis consults local historians
to formulate dishes. Today, he lets me try a savory Italian pie—delicate pastry
filled with Lithuanian forest mushrooms. It’s delicious.
I head back to the Hotel Pacai, a 17th-century Baroque palace that has
been converted into a stunning Design Hotel. It’s one of my favorite places
to stay in Vilnius. Until recently, it was also one of my favorite places to eat:
At its restaurant, Nineteen18, chef Matas Paulinas explored the possibili-
ties of the new Lithuanian kitchen with fervor, sourcing vegetables from
within 100 kilometers (about 62 miles) of the restaurant. This summer, it’s
moving to a new location that’s about a five-minute walk from the hotel.
While the above restaurants are all great examples of new and exciting
Baltic cuisine, you often need to dip into the past to understand the pres-
ent. Šnekutis is a rough-and-tumble bar that serves traditional, hearty
Lithuanian food, where the potato plays the starring role in myriad ways.
The vibe here is gregarious, a little edgy, and an outright hoot, and the
decor and food transport me to another time. I eat a giant zeppelin-shaped
dumpling wrapped in potato puree and wash it down with a towering cold
beer, and my love for Vilnius continues to grow.LITHUANIA
VilniusBELARUSPOLAND
CZECHIA
LATVIA
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
FINLAND
SWEDEN
Baltic Sealeft: Potato and
Smoked Fish Cab-
bage Rolls
opposite: The Vilnia
River separates
Old Town from the
bohemian Užupis
neighborhood.MAP: WINSLOW TAFT
0520_FT_New_Baltic.indd 100 FINAL 3/17/20 3:45 PM