Food & Wine USA - (05)May 2020

(Comicgek) #1

82 MAY 2020


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WHEN DOES A SPIRITS COLLECTION go from impressive to downright stagger-
ing? Smuggler’s Cove in San Francisco carries, at any given time, about 850
different rums, while Atlas Bar in Singapore houses a library with more than
1,400 different bottles of gin. In Scotland, the Glenesk Hotel bar carries just
over 1,500 expressions of whiskey.
The point at each place isn’t to break records or to blindly accumulate as
many bottles as possible. Instead, it’s that a bar—in addition to being a fine
place to have a drink—can also be a resource to educate guests
about a specific spirit: its production methods, history, nuances,
and range of expressions. “With our collection, we can help con-
vert people from other categories, say tequila, to rum,” says
Martin Cate, the owner of Smuggler’s Cove, where guests are
handed a 20-chapter binder of rums to browse upon entry.
While bars like these are especially alluring for connoisseurs
of a single spirit (Atlas Bar head bartender Jesse Vida says many
guests are incredibly particular about which specific tonic they
want with certain gins, which is why he stocks 14 different
brands), it’s important to keep things approachable. “For a whis-
key rookie, we start by offering lighter, more delicate expres-
sions,” says Samuel Allen, whiskey ambassador at Glenesk Hotel.
“From there, we explain the differences and similarities, nar-
rowing down which flavor profiles the person prefers. The goal
is to provide a foundation.”
That said, once a foundation has been laid, things get a lot more
fun: Atlas Bar’s Juniper Society hosts exclusive monthly gin tast-
ing sessions and social hours; members of the Rumbustion Society at Smug-
gler’s Cove who have tried more than 300 expressions of rum are invited on
an intimate trip to a distillery in Antigua or Brazil. “Many of the members
meet up and spend time together separately,” says Cate. “They’ve really built
a terrific community through rum.” —OSET BABÜR

COCKTAIL HOUR


Anything But One and Done For lessons in

whiskey, gin, or rum, take a pilgrimage to

these three shrines.

IF YOU HAD TO CHOOSE


THREE BOTTLES...


WHISKEY


THE DISCOVERY


“Tomintoul
33-year-old offers
the heavier flavors
typical of an older
whiskey yet keeps
the fruity, almost
sprightly Tomintoul
style.”

THE RARE FIND


“Glenglassaugh
Rare Cask Release
Cask #3171 is
an extremely
rare, 40-year-old
release. To the
best of my knowl-
edge, we’re the
only place in the
world to offer this
whiskey by the
dram!”

THE HOME BAR
STAPLE
“The Glengoyne 12-
year-old. A lovely
combination of
bourbon and
sherry cask whis-
keys, it’s easy
to enjoy and will
surely impress
your guests.”

SAMUEL ALLEN,


Glenesk Hotel

RUM


THE DISCOVERY


“Worthy Park Single
Estate Reserve
from Jamaica is a
real celebration of
the traditionally full-
bodied rums made
at Jamaican estate
distilleries.”

THE RARE FIND
“English Harbour
Barrel Select Private
Cask is bottled exclu-
sively for Smuggler’s
Cove. With delicate
aromas and a linger-
ing finish, this cask-
strength Antiguan
rum shows that
light-bodied doesn’t
mean flavorless.”

THE HOME BAR


STAPLE


“Chairman’s Reserve
The Forgotten
Casks from St. Lucia
is really versatile;
enjoy it neat or in
cocktails.”

MARTIN CATE,


Smuggler’s Cove

THE DISCOVERY


“St. George Terroir
smells and tastes
just like a California
hiking trail, with
pine and Douglas
fir notes.”

THE RARE FIND


“Ferdinand’s Saar
Dry Gin from Ger-
many has a semi-
dry Riesling in the
mix, making it deli-
cious both straight
and in a cocktail.”

THE HOME BAR
STAPLE
“Fords Gin is deli-
ciously balanced
and works in
everything from
classic cocktails to
gin and tonics.”

GIN


J E S SE V I DA,


Atlas Bar

top: A view of the
gins at Singapore’s
Atlas Bar below:
Glenesk Hotel in
Scotland shows off
its whiskeys.

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FW_0520_BottleService.indd 82 FINAL 3/17/20 3:46 PM

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