98 MAY 2020
OFFERS VISITORS TO THE LITHUANIAN CAPITAL a lesson
in history. Adjacent to the city’s medieval center, beauti-
fully intricate baroque buildings will suddenly give way to
splashes of brutal Soviet-style architecture as well as more
familiar modernism. They serve as a time line of the coun-
try’s past: Its capital was a grand cosmopolitan city and part
of a vast empire—the largest in Europe—before 50-odd years
of Soviet occupation made time and progress stand still.
Emerging out of this turbulent history is a unique and
dynamic moment in Lithuanian culture and cuisine, as well as a culinary renaissance driven
by Vilnius’ chefs and restaurants. I’ve made many trips to the region while researching my
book Baltic ($35, Hardie Grant), and a favorite stop is the farmers market, Tymo Turgus, on
the Vilnia River. It’s not as hip as the indoor Halės Market, but Tymo is where the action is.
I’m here in June, and it’s a pleasantly warm summer’s day. A queue has formed at a stall
for highly prized Baltic black bread. Pillow-size loaves with varying interiors of caraway,
hemp seed, and linseed all share a common attribute: an almost black crust. This is the
result of long cooking, where the exterior needs to almost burn to allow heat to penetrate
the dough. The loaves are so large that they are portioned and placed on scales to be sold by
weight. A few stalls down, the dairy seller tells me about his recent escapades in France to
expand his cheesemaking skills. I’m excited by the selection of bottled whey and a variety
of curd cheeses, sour creams, and sour milks, testament to the Baltics’ love of tangy dairy.WEAVING THROUGH THE
TWISTED, LABYRINTHINE
STREETS O F
VILNIUS
left: The historic center of Vilnius features Gothic, Renaissance, and
Baroque architecture; winding cobblestone streets; and charming
restaurants (like Monstro, a pizzeria and bar, opposite, bottom left).
abov e: Roasted Carrot Soup with Fresh Cheese and Black Bread
(recipe p. 118)FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY
Food Photography by Victor Protasio0520_FT_New_Baltic.indd 98 FINAL 3/17/20 3:45 PM