Food & Wine USA - (06)June 2020

JUNE 2020 99

TOTAL 1 HR, PLUS 8 HR REFRIGERATION

SERVES 4 TO 6

Baldwin’s method of grilling whole fish

takes advantage of the cavity. Slipping a

spatula into the fish, instead of on either

side, makes it easier to flip without dis-

turbing the crispy grilled fish skin or flaky

meat. Any super-fresh oily fish like Atlantic

bonito or mackerel works well here, espe-

cially with a sweet-tart relish of grilled pep-

pers and juicy cherries.

2 (1- to 1^1 / 2 -lb.) whole bluefish, bonito,

or mackerel (about 1^1 / 4 inches

thick), gutted and scaled

3 medium-size red or yellow bell

peppers

1 cup fresh Rainier cherries,

stemmed (or frozen pitted cherries,

thawed)

2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. olive oil, divided

1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar

2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

1 tsp. chopped fresh oregano

1 Tbsp. plus^3 / 4 tsp. kosher salt,

divided

1 / 4 tsp. crushed red pepper, plus more

to taste

2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil, plus more for

oiling grill grates

8 oregano sprigs, divided

8 thyme sprigs, divided

Lemon or lime wedges, for serving

1. Pat fish dry, inside and out, with paper
   towels. Place fish on a wire rack set inside
   a rimmed baking sheet. Refrigerate,
   uncovered, until skin is dry, at least 8
   hours or up to 2 days.


2. Open bottom vent of a charcoal grill
   completely. Light charcoal chimney
   starter filled with briquettes. (Never use
   charcoal lighter fluid to start a charcoal
   fire; it will give grilled foods a chemical
   taste.) When briquettes are covered with
   gray ash, pour them onto bottom grate of
   grill. Insert top grill grate, and cover grill.
   Bring temperature to medium-high
   (400°F to 450°F) by adjusting top and
   bottom air vents.


3. Place bell peppers on oiled grates over
   hottest part of the grill; grill, uncovered,

turning occasionally, until charred all

over, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer bell pep-

pers to a medium bowl, and cover tightly

with plastic wrap; let stand 10 minutes.

Using a paper towel, scrape off skins from

peppers; discard skins. Slice peppers

lengthwise into^1 / 3 -inch-thick strips;

remove and discard seeds and core.

4. Place cherries on oiled grill grates, or
   use a grilling basket or an 8-inch cast-iron
   skillet. If using a skillet, preheat it on the
   side of the grill while peppers are cooking.
   Grill cherries, uncovered, turning or toss-
   ing occasionally, until they begin to char
   and weep, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer cher-
   ries to a medium bowl; let cool 5 minutes.
   Halve cherries; remove and discard pits.


5. Stir together bell peppers, cherries, 2
   tablespoons olive oil, vinegar, chopped
   thyme, chopped oregano,^3 / 4 teaspoon
   salt, and desired amount of crushed red
   pepper in a bowl. Set aside to marinate
   while preparing fish.


6. If needed, add 10 to 15 charcoal bri-
   quettes to grill to bring temperature up to
   425°F. Rub outsides of fish evenly with
   grapeseed oil. Sprinkle outside and inside
   cavities of fish evenly with remaining 1
   tablespoon salt. Stuff 4 oregano sprigs
   and 4 thyme sprigs into each fish cavity,
   stem ends first, to lodge them securely.
   Scrub grill grates clean using a grill brush.
   Dip a folded-up dish towel into grapeseed
   oil; hold towel using tongs, and thoroughly
   grease grill grates. Place fish on grill
   grates; grill, uncovered, 4 minutes. Using
   a fish spatula, gently lift up part of each
   fish to see if the skin is sticking to grates
   and whether you’ve established a crust. If
   there’s no crust yet, let fish cook an addi-
   tional 1 to 2 minutes. Place a spatula in
   the cavity of each fish, and roll it over; the
   goal is to touch the fish as little as possi-
   ble. Even if it sticks a little, turn the fish
   over, and leave it alone to finish cooking.
   After 4 or 5 minutes, use a metal skewer
   to pierce the meat at its thickest point.
   When removed, it should feel quite warm
   on your lip. If it is, remove the fish from
   the grill. For an additional test, fleck a bit
   of meat off the part that you will serve
   yourself; fish will flake when it is done.


7. With tongs in one hand and the spatula
   in the other, use the tongs to lift the head;
   slide the spatula under the body, and
   transfer fish to a serving platter. Drizzle
   evenly with remaining 2 teaspoons olive
   oil. Serve with lemon or lime wedges and
   marinated pepper-cherry mixture.
   MAKE AHEAD Pepper-cherry mixture can
   be made up to 1 day in advance. Cover
   and store in an airtight container in
   refrigerator.
   WINE New York state Pinot Noir: 2016
   Ravines Finger Lakes

GRILLED BLUEFISH

WITH

CHARRED CHERRIES

AND PEPPERS

Find an area on the grill with fairly even heat; gently place the fish there. The heads

should go over the hotter part of the grill so the thickest meat gets the most heat. Once

the fish are on the grill, leave them as they are, even if it’s not the prime spot, so the skin

remains intact. —NED BALDWIN

PICK YOUR SPOT

PROP STYLING: OLGA GRIGORENKO

FW_0620_SeaToSupper02.indd 99 FINAL 4/14/20 10:51 AM