100 JUNE 2020
When I remove the cake
tester or metal skewer
from the fish, I press it
directly above my upper
lip; it should feel warm,
not hot or room
temperature. The fish will
flake a little if fully
cooked, giving you an
opportunity to check the
color in the middle of the
fish; the flesh should be
opaque. Feel the flakes
with your finger to
confirm warmness. I try
to take the mystery out
of ascertaining doneness.
The more senses you can
use, the less mysterious
doneness becomes.
—NED BALDWINK N O W WH E N
IT’S DONE
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 55 MIN
SERVES 4
Eggs and cod are a time-honored mar-
riage of textures and tastes. The starting
point for this dish was le grand aioli of
Provence, which features a robust aioli
with crudités and cod. When you serve
this salad, be sure to flake the fish a little
so the sauce can flavor as much of the fish
as possible.11 / 2 lb. skinless cod fillets, cut into 8
(3-oz.) pieces
11 / 8 tsp. kosher salt, divided
8 cups water
2 (6-inch) squares kombu (about 1
oz.)
41 / 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 Tbsp. thinly sliced fresh chives1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. finely chopped
fresh tarragon, divided
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill,
divided, plus more for garnish
1 /^2 tsp. flaky sea salt
6 large eggs
2 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot
1 1 / 2 Tbsp. non-pareil capers, roughly
chopped
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 drained jarred anchovy fillets, finely
chopped
1 / 2 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf
parsley leaves, plus more for
garnish- Sprinkle cod evenly with 1 teaspoon
kosher salt. Place on a plate; refrigerate,
WARM COD SALAD
WITH
TARRAGON SAUCE AND
BOILED EGGS uncovered, at least 1 hour or up to 8 hours
or overnight. Combine 8 cups water and
kombu in a large pot; cover and let stand
at room temperature 1 hour.- Heat kombu mixture over medium-high
to about 180°F (water will be steaming,
and small bubbles will form around the
bottom of the pot, but none should break
the surface). Add cod. As the cold fish hits
the water, the water’s temperature will
drop; adjust heat as needed to maintain
water temperature at around 160°F. Cook
until a cake tester or a skewer meets no
resistance when inserted into fish and fish
flakes slighty, 3 to 4 minutes for thin fillets
or 8 to 10 minutes for thicker fillets. Using
a slotted spoon or a spider, transfer
cooked cod pieces to a platter. - Drizzle cooked cod pieces evenly with
11 / 2 tablespoons oil; sprinkle with chives, 1
teaspoon tarragon, 1 teaspoon dill, and
flaky salt. Set aside. - Fill a medium pot with water to a depth
of 3 inches; bring to a boil over medium-
high. Carefully add eggs; cook 6 minutes.
Transfer eggs to a bowl filled with ice
water; let cool 10 minutes. Peel eggs, and
set aside. - Cook shallot and remaining 3 table-
spoons oil in a small saucepan over
medium-low, stirring often, until shallot is
slightly softened but not browned, about
3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl; let
cool 10 minutes. Whisk in capers, lemon
juice, Dijon, anchovies, remaining 1 table-
spoon tarragon, and remaining^1 / 8 tea-
spoon kosher salt. - To serve, drizzle about^1 / 2 tablespoon
tarragon sauce on each of 4 serving
plates. Quarter eggs lengthwise; place 3
pieces on each plate. Sprinkle evenly with
parsley and remaining 2 teaspoons dill;
top evenly with cod, flaking fish as desired.
Top evenly with remaining egg pieces.
Garnish with parsley and dill, then drizzle
and dab the remaining sauce all around. If
it looks chaotic, you’ve done it right.
MAKE AHEAD The eggs may be boiled up
to 2 days in advance and stored,
unpeeled, in refrigerator. The dressing
may be made up to 1 day in advance,
covered, and stored in refrigerator.
WINE Dry, lime-inflected Riesling: 2017
Forge Cellars Classique Finger Lakes
FW_0620_SeaToSupper02.indd 100 FINAL 4/14/20 2:45 PM