Food & Wine USA - (06)June 2020

JUNE 2020 103

ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN

SERVES 4

Baldwin’s three-step cooking process deliv-

ers evenly cooked fillets with crispy skin

every time. First, he pan-sears fillets, skin

side down, under pressure from a spatula

to start the cooking and prevent the fillets

from curling up. Second, he adds butter for

both flavor and moisture; the steam helps

release any stubborn skin that might be

stuck. Finally, a skin-side-down finish in the

pan in the bottom of the oven cooks the

fish through while ensuring crispy skin.

4 (6-oz.) skin-on meaty whitefish

fillets (such as striped bass,

redfish, rockfish, or snapper),

patted dry with paper towels

1 /^2 cup roughly chopped scallion

greens

1 / 4 cup watercress

1 /^2 cup packed mixed fresh herb leaves

(such as flat-leaf parsley, chervil,

tarragon, cilantro, and/or dill),

divided

2 Tbsp. mayonnaise

2 Tbsp. sour cream

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided

1 Tbsp. water

2 jarred anchovy fillets, drained

21 / 4 tsp. kosher salt, divided

1 to 6 Tbsp. grapeseed oil, as needed,

divided

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, as needed

2 large heads Little Gem lettuce,

outer leaves separated, heads

halved lengthwise

3 Tbsp. lower-sodium chicken broth

1 / 3 cup hazelnuts, toasted, papery

skins removed and nuts roughly

chopped

1. Place fish fillets, skin sides up, on a wire
   rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet.
   Chill, uncovered, at least 1 hour or up to 8
   hours or overnight.


2. Process scallion greens, watercress,^1 / 4
   cup fresh herbs, mayonnaise, sour cream,

1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 tablespoon

water, anchovies, and^1 / 4 teaspoon salt in a

blender until smooth, about 30 seconds.

Cover and chill until ready to serve.

3. Preheat oven to 500°F with rack in low-
   est position. Season both sides of fillets
   with 1^1 / 2 teaspoons salt. Heat 1 tablespoon
   oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-
   high until a wisp of smoke forms.


4. Lay 1 fillet, skin side down, in skillet,
   and immediately press down on fillet
   evenly and with firm pressure using a stiff
   spatula; press 30 seconds. Check the skin
   by gently lifting a corner of the fillet; if it
   needs a little more time to begin lightly
   browning around the edges, cook an addi-
   tional 15 seconds. If skin sticks, add^1 / 2
   tablespoon butter to skillet, and gently lift
   the corner of the fillet while tipping the
   skillet so the butter flows under the fish.
   Once the fillet is lightly browned around
   the edges, transfer it, skin side up, to a
   plate. If butter was added, wipe skillet
   clean, and add 1 tablespoon oil. (If no but-
   ter was used, don’t wipe skillet clean or
   add any more oil.) Repeat process 3 times
   using remaining fillets.


5. If butter was used in step 4, wipe skillet
   clean, and add 1 tablespoon oil. Return all
   fillets to skillet in a single layer, skin sides
   down. Transfer skillet to lowest rack or
   the deck of preheated oven; cook accord-
   ing to fillet thickness, about 8 minutes per
   inch. Use a metal skewer or cake tester to
   pierce the meat at its thickest point; when
   removed, it should feel quite warm when
   pressed to your lip. For an additional test,
   fleck a bit off the meat that you will serve
   yourself; fish will flake when it is done.
   Cover with aluminum foil to keep warm.


6. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a
   large skillet over medium. Cut a 1-inch-
   long slit through the core of each lettuce
   head half. Add lettuce and remaining^1 / 2
   teaspoon salt to skillet; cook, tossing
   occasionally, until wilted, about 2 min-
   utes. Reduce heat to medium-low, and
   add broth; cook, tossing occasionally,
   until lettuce is tender, 2 to 4 minutes.


7. Spread dressing evenly on 4 plates. Top
   evenly with braised lettuce, fish fillets,
   hazelnuts, and remaining^1 / 4 cup fresh
   herbs. Drizzle fish with remaining 1 table-
   spoon lemon juice. Serve immediately.
   MAKE AHEAD Dressing can be chilled in an
   airtight container up to 2 days.
   WINE New York state Chardonnay: 2017
   Bedell Cellars

CRISPY-SKINNED BASS WITH

BRAISED LETTUCE

AND

GREEN GODDESS DRESSING

When pressing with a spatula, you might feel a subtle change as the flesh of the fish

relaxes. Now, you can release pressure. After searing, return fillets to pan skin sides

down to finish cooking in the oven. —NED BALDWIN

PRESS AND RELEASE

(OPPOSITE) FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

FW_0620_SeaToSupper02.indd 103 FINAL 4/14/20 10:52 AM