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28 JUNE 2020
HIS TIME LAST YEAR, Toriano Gordon was working
as an Uber driver, zigzagging around the Bay Area
attempting to make ends meet. Today, less than
one year later, he owns one of the city’s most suc-
cessful barbecue spots that just so happens to be
completely meat-free. Called Vegan Mob, the restaurant, with an
unmissable neon green exterior, sits on a busy stretch in Oak-
land, California, and is, well, perpetually mobbed. “On opening
day, there were hundreds of people in line,” says Gordon. “There
were even people from Seattle, Portland, and New York.” Even
on a brisk November day, as I sat waiting for my Mob Plate, the
line moved quickly but never managed to actually shorten.
Gordon, who grew up in San Francisco’s Fillmore District,
went vegan three years ago for health reasons. While he felt
better, there was one thing he loved that he could no longer
eat: barbecue. After struggling to find a satisfying meatless
take, he decided to make a plant-based version himself. The
40-year-old chef had toyed with culinary school in his early
20s but dropped out due to addiction, learning instead to cook
from watching years of Food Network. He began selling his
vegan barbecue out of the trunk of his car by posting on
Instagram and going to farmers markets, quickly building
a loyal following. While working toward starting his own food
truck, he received an opportunity to open a brick-and-mortar
location on Lake Park Avenue.
Though Vegan Mob was built to function as a takeout
operation, Gordon also launched a delivery arm to better serve
customers during the COVID-19 pandemic. The kitchen, staffedmostly by people from the local community, turns out plate
after plate of food at a steady clip. Scoops of Gordon’s signature
Smackaroni, which gets its creamy texture from pea protein
milk, and piles of smoky collard greens spiked with bacon bits
(which are, of course, vegan) come out of the kitchen. Trays are
stacked with bowls of gumbo, which take on oceanic depth
through a clever deployment of seaweed. The real stars of the
show, however, are the brisket and ribs, which arrive slathered
in a tangy Texas-inspired barbecue sauce and remain texturally
appealing, despite being plant-based.
While Gordon’s ultimate goal is to make incredible food for
vegans and non-vegans alike—“I want every item on the menu
to be like a dope-ass song,” he says—he also has high hopes for
his food’s ability to prompt meaningful change in the Black
community. “If I can convince somebody to try this healthier
lifestyle, I will be proud.”
Gordon’s success is, in many ways, unsurprising. By blending
the historically Black tradition of barbecue with veganism, which
has strong roots in the Black community, he’s creating a delicious
new tradition. And though he isn’t the first person to dish out
plant-based barbecue—it’s a growing trend in cities like Portland,
Oregon; NYC; and Houston—his plans might be the most ambi-
tious. Gordon currently sources many of his vegan proteins from
Oakland chef GW Chew but has his sights set on making his own.
“I want to be a bigger chain than McDonald’s; that’s my vision.
I want to be all over the world.” For now, however, he is focused
on finding a new home for Vegan Mob once his 18-month lease
is finished. One contender? A vacant KFC just down the street.The Mob Sandwich with plant-based ribs
or brisket comes smothered in a
craveable sweet-and-spicy sauce.T
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FW_0620_Obsessions.indd 28 FINAL 4/15/20 5:33 PM