32 JUNE 2020
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THE SIGHT OF sizzling, vertically spit-
roasted meat, slowly turning and
basting in its own juices, is enough
to stop any hungry person in their
tracks. Sold on street corners from
Istanbul to Los Angeles, this slow-
cooked meat is shaved to order and
often wrapped in flatbread. This
method of preparing meat originated
in Istanbul, in kebab form, travelled to
the Levant, where it became known
as shawarma (literally “to turn” in
Arabic), then jumped the Atlantic
with Lebanese immigrants to Mexico,
where it evolved as al pastor. All three
variations on spit-turned meat–and
dozens more riffs–are found across
the globe today.
Famously affordable, shawarma has
kept me well-fed throughout my life.
Doner kebab nourished me as a broke
student in Spain; shawarma carts
sustained me as a broke intern in New
York City years ago. To this day, the
aroma of cumin-and-chile-scented
meat remains a profound comfort.
It was with this taste memory in
mind that I set out to make shawarma
at home. Instead of a vertical spit,
my method involves triple-skewering
thin slices of marinated chicken to cre-
ate a tight horizontal roast —a sort of
shawarma-kebab hybrid. Searing the
stacked chicken over hot coals before
finishing it over low heat ensures the
right ratio of crispy charred outside to
tender, super-juicy inside. Paired with
grilled marinated mushrooms, fresh
vegetables, pita, and a creamy tahini
sauce, the result is a gorgeous spread
perfect for early-summer eating. (See
method at right and p. 34 for the full
recipe.) —MARY-FRANCES HECKBACKYARD
SHAWARMA
STACK CHICKEN
Arrange marinated chicken in 3 even stacks,
rotating as needed to keep stacks as neat as
possible. Top each stack with 2 onion petals.POUND CHICKEN
Place chicken thighs between 2 sheets of
plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet, pound
chicken to^1 / 8 -inch thickness.BUTCHER CHICKEN
Lay pounded thighs on top of one another in
1 or 2 neat stacks. Cut stack crosswise into
thirds. Marinate chicken as directed.SKEWER CHICKEN
Into the center of 1 stack, insert skewers 1
inch apart, forming a triangle. Use fingers to
slide chicken up skewers.SKEWER STACKS
Position skewers over second chicken stack;
skewer stack. Repeat with remaining stack.
Add onion petals to end of shawarma.The commercial grills used by
shawarma vendors slowly turn
stacked meat on a vertical spit.
Coils in the back radiate direct
heat; side panels reflect it for
indirect cooking.2 3
1
4 5
ILLUSTRATION: RACHEL CARNEY
FW_0620_Handbook.indd 32 FINAL 4/16/20 11:33 AM