Food & Wine USA - (06)June 2020

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42 JUNE 2020

TADKA, TORKA, BAGAR, CHAUNK—across South Asia, the technique of temper-

ing is known by many names. Not to be confused with the process for gently

cooking chocolate or eggs, in Sri Lankan and Indian cooking, tempering is the

act of swirling whole spices, like cumin or mustard seeds, in hot oil, roasting

and toasting to impart big flavor in minimal time. It’s one of the most effective

techniques for layering bitter, earthy, or bright flavors quickly into a dish.

Sometimes ingredients I never expect are transformed via tempering into the

most beautiful bites, like these sunny slivers of mango. While fruit in curries

doesn’t evoke the same divisive reactions as, say, pineapple on pizza, here mango

provides a surprising twist and becomes a conversation starter at the table. I like

to experience many different flavors in one bite, and this combination of spicy

pork, sweet-tart fruit, and noodles hits all the right notes. —SAMANTHA FORE,

TUK TUK SRI LANKAN BITES

Temper, Temper Samantha Fore’s

favorite trick for building flavor

F&W COOKS

Spicy Mango Pork with Noodles

ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN

SERVES 4

11 / 2 lb. pork tenderloin, cut crosswise

into^1 / 2 -inch-thick slices

1 Tbsp. ground cumin

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. lime zest plus 2 Tbsp. fresh

lime juice

1 tsp. finely chopped garlic

11 /^2 tsp. black pepper, divided

2 tsp. finely chopped peeled fresh

ginger, divided

2 Tbsp. coconut oil, divided

1 / 4 tsp. black or brown mustard seeds

1 cup thinly sliced red onion

11 / 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced serrano chile

3 mangoes, peeled and cut into

(^3) / 4 -inch-thick spears
1 cup hot water
8 oz. uncooked thin rice noodles or
vermicelli, cooked according to
pkg. directions
Thinly sliced scallions and pickled
cucumber slices, for garnish

1. Toss together pork, cumin, salt, lime
   zest and juice, garlic, 1 teaspoon black
   pepper, and 1 teaspoon ginger in a
   medium bowl. Cover and chill at least 30
   minutes.


2. Heat 1 tablespoon coconut oil in a large
   skillet over high. Working in 2 batches,
   add pork; cook until browned on both
   sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate.


3. Wipe skillet clean; reduce heat to
   medium. Add mustard seeds and remain-
   ing 1 tablespoon oil; cook, undisturbed,
   until small bubbles appear on surface of
   seeds, about 30 seconds. Add onion and
   chile; cook, stirring occasionally, until
   softened, about 5 minutes. Add mango
   and remaining 1 teaspoon ginger; cook,
   stirring gently, until mango is just tender,
   6 minutes. Transfer to plate with pork.


4. Return 1 cup mango mixture to skillet;
   add 1 cup hot water. Bring to a simmer
   over medium-high; cook, smashing fruit
   using back of a wooden spoon, until
   slightly thickened, about 3 minutes.
   Return remaining mango mixture and
   pork to skillet. Cook, stirring often, until
   pork is fully coated with mango mixture.


5. Serve pork mixture over noodles; gar-
   nish with scallions and pickled cucumber.
   WINE Light-bodied, spicy red: 2018
   Birichino Bechthold Vineyard Cinsaut

Our community of F&W Cooks shares their favorite recipes and delicious ideas in every issue. Cook along at

foodandwine.com/fwcooks and on social media @foodandwine using the hashtag #fwcooks.

photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

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FW_0620_Handbook.indd 42 FINAL 4/16/20 11:41 AM