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64 JUNE 2020
of “Auguri!” The first days of the year tasted of sweet pistachio
crème, cannoli, and pecorino cheese. Heading north via car
ferry to the mainland, we skirted the coastline of Puglia in an
unexpected snowstorm that turned the olive and palm trees
white. We navigated the hair-raising cliffside bends of the Amalfi
Coast road to sample Pasticceria Pansa’s famous delizia al
limone just before everyone shut up shop for the winter. And
we cruised up the Autostrada to Naples, making a nighttime
detour to Pepe in Grani for springy charred pizza that’s been
lauded as the world’s best (and it might just be).
February called for Rome, Florence, and Bologna before the
crowds and heat returned. Full to the gills with cacio e pepe
(Rome’s pride and joy), ribollita (the excellent Tuscan vegetable
stew), and tortellini en brodo (an Emilia-Romagna classic), we
took day trips to Modena and Parma to stock up on balsamic
vinegar and Parmigiano-Reggiano, but also Modena’s syrup-
drenched rose cake and Parma’s delightful Lambrusco wine.
In May, we embarked on a springtime tour of Turin, Genoa,
Cinque Terre, Lake Como, and Bergamo, when the days were
longer but the waters too cold to draw a crowd. Turin is off the
main tourist itinerary, but its fresh produce markets—one of
which is the largest open-air market in Europe—have to be seen
to be believed. And there’s nothing like savoring the contrasts
between the veal tartare, Barolo, and Alpine vistas of Piedmont
and the refreshing seafood, pesto, Vermentino, and rocky coast-
line of Liguria.
Over the July 4 holiday, we crammed in a whirlwind visit,
swimming in the glassy ocean every chance we got and tearing
open sun-warmed sweet figs with sea-salty hands. In four
sweltering days, we drove 1,240 miles. From limoncello spritz
in Amalfi on Thursday night to seafood-filled ravioli in Ravenna
on Sunday, stopping in between for the main show: a stunning
dinner at the three-Michelin-starred Reale at the Casadonnahotel. I’ve never been so bewitched by the pure, intense flavor
of just-picked seasonal ingredients or so charmed by a hotel’s
parting gift: a loaf of fresh local-wheat sourdough.
Over Thanksgiving, we kept our toes dry in Venice while
snacking on cicchetti (tapas-like snacks) and sipping Prosecco.
Then onward to Trieste, Verona, and Mantua, hunting down
Christmas markets, rich Amarone risotto, warming vin brulé,
crisp white Soave, and snowy mountain roads. Way up near the
Dolomites, we found the German-Italian chimera of Bolzano
in Alto Adige (or Südtirol, as many locals call it), where strudel,
pretzels, and beer abound and greetings may come in either
language. The Year of Italy formally wrapped in Milan, where
we loaded up on old-school aperitivo at some glamorous Mila-
nese institutions: Pasticceria Marchesi (owned by Prada), Bar
Luce (designed by Wes Anderson), and the exceptionally fash-
ionable Cova on Via Montenapoleone.
It’s a shame that for many travelers, a few days in Rome,
Florence, and Venice eating pasta and pizza constitutes a taste
of Italy. Even after five visits, four seasons, 26 different cities,
and thousands of miles traversed, I know there’s still more to
explore. When the country is open for business again, we’ll be
back for another Year of Italy.clockwise from left: Persimmon,
pistachio, and Fiori di Sicilia (a
citrusy, floral extract) gelato; a
scoop on the island of Capri;
Pasticceria Marchesi in MilanPH
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0620_Travel.indd 64 FINAL 4/21/20 4:49 PM