BACKSTORY112 JULY 2020
CHRIS SHEPHERD, a 2013 F&W Best New
Chef and chef-owner of Houston’s
Underbelly Hospitality, never thought
that his national emergency relief fund,
Southern Smoke Foundation, would
become as vital as it has over the past
four months. Shepherd launched
Southern Smoke in 2015 to help fund
multiple sclerosis research after
learning that a friend, a former
sommelier, had been diagnosed. But in
2017, after Hurricane Harvey, the
nonprofit shifted its focus, establishing
an emergency fund to help hospitality
industry workers in crisis. That fund
has grown, enabling Southern Smoke
to provide aid in response to the
national shutdown caused by
COVID-19. As of press time, Southern
Smoke had distributed $1,504,926 to
food and beverage workers impacted
by the pandemic. “People in our
industry don’t ask for more than what
they need,” Shepherd says. Which is
why, at Southern Smoke, money is
allocated on a case-by-case basis, and
funds aren’t capped. The organization
requires an extensive amount of
documentation as proof; every bill is
verified before any money is granted.
“We’re not easy,” Shepherd says, “but
we’re fair. We trust the individual to do
what they’re supposed to do.”
—BY NINA FRIEND AND MARIA YAGODAMan ona Mission“I could have used this fund many times
as a young cook. I’ve seen mental break-
downs because of financial need. It takes
you into a dark place.” —CHRIS SHEPHERDBY THE NUMBERS$3,064,159Funds distributed since Southern
Smoke was founded in 2015139People in the food and beverage industry that Southern
Smoke was able to assist in the aftermath of Hurricane Harvey862Industry workers that Southern Smoke has
been able to assist in response to COVID-1938People, including former restaurant workers,
hired to help with COVID-19-related applications3 DAYSThe quickest turnaround in which Southern
Smoke has been able to donate moneyApplications submitted to Southern
25K Smoke for relief in response to COVID-19DONATE NOW
Through a part-
nership with
Southern Smoke,
Food & Wine has
donated $10,000
to support hos-
pitality workers
who have been
impacted by the
pandemic. Join
us in making a
donation at
southernsmoke
.org/support.photography by MARIE D. DE JESÚS