54 JULY 2020
BOTTLE SERVICE2018 RAòL PƒREZ ULTREIA SAINT
JACQUES TINTO ($20)
Raúl Pérez is one of Spain’s most acclaimed
winemakers, and this old-vine red, with its
supple blueberry-cranberry notes, is, as Félix
Meana of Cúrate in Asheville, North Carolina,
says, “a perfect yet humble representation of
everything that is exceptional about the wine
tradition in Bierzo.”2015 MAS DOIX SALANQUES ($50)
“I grew up in Catalonia, where the Priorat region
is located, so this one is close to my heart!”
says Meana. “It’s a prime example of the wines
of the Priorat region.” And so it is: dark and
dense, with lots of raspberry and black cherry
Grenache flavor.2017 LA STOPPA TREBBIOLO ROSSO ($25)
Elena Pantaleoni, owner of this historic estate
in Emilia-Romagna, is one of the most eloquent
producers of natural wine around, and her
wines are equally expressive. This Barbera-
Bonarda blend from her youngest vines has
earthy, leathery aromas that lead into vibrant
dark-berry flavors.2016 UCCELLIERA RAPACE ($35)
As Brent Kroll says, “Hey, Super-Tuscan
drinker? Meet Brunello lover.” He adds that this
blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet has
enough tannins to accompany hearty dishes,
along with “classic tea-leaf notes and well-
integrated oak flavors.”2017 BAND OF VINTNERS NAPA VALLEY
CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($40)
“We like this red because it allows guests to drink
honest Napa Cabernet at a price that doesn’t
shake heaven and earth,” says Matt Stamp of
Compline in Napa. Four Napa Valley winemak-
ers team up to make it, and at a time when the
average Napa Cabernet runs $60 or so, it is
definitely a bargain.2018 COMANDO G LA BRUJA DE
ROZAS ($30)
This joint project between young Spanish wine-
making stars Daniel Landi and Fernando García
has helped put the mountainous Gredos region,
west of Madrid, on the map. They focus on grace-
ful, aromatic old-vine Grenaches—this, their
most affordable wine, is an excellent introduction.2018 PAX NORTH COAST SYRAH ($30)
Matt Stamp says, “I like this wine for its
high-toned, aromatic, peppery wildness.”
And indeed you should—it’s a finely tuned
California Syrah from a top winemaker
that’s great for drinking right now, and it
comes at a very fair price.2016 CARDEDU CALADU CANONAU DI
SARDEGNA ($19)
Trent Stewart at Birmingham, Alabama’s
Golden Age Wine pours this natural wine
regularly. “It’s delicious—you get that
Sardinian heat in the dark roasted-cherry
flavors, and it’s got some funky earth to it,
but it’s clean.”CAIN VINEYARD & WINERY NV15 CAIN
CUVƒE NAPA VALLEY ($36)
A blend of mostly Merlot and Cabernet, plus
Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, as well as
a blend of vintages (2014 and 2015), this
edition of Cain Cuvée holds to winemaker
Christopher Howell’s style: elegant rather
than massive, vibrant rather than dense.
Think fresh plums, rather than jam.It’s a cliché for
a reason: Umami-
rich salumi, shaved to
melt-on-your-tongue
thinness, is a versatile
match for a range
of reds.RED