104 AUGUST 2019
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AUGUST IS THE LAZIEST MONTH, in the best pos-
sible way. It seems to move a little slower than
the other months of the year—in theory because
of the heat, in fact because so many people are
on vacation. It’s sluggish, languid even, but al-
ways welcoming. (After all, it’s far more fun to
be lazy with friends.) All of that makes August, in my mind, the
best month for leisurely dinners outside, for grilling in the back-
yard or by the beach or the lake, for cooking unfussy food. This
means, of course, that it’s also prime frozen cocktail season. My
most recent slushy obsession is a tequila, cucumber, and coco-
nut water creation, blended up with cilantro and lime and
rimmed with a mix of chili powder, sumac, and salt. It’s an ode
to my favorite Mexican street snack: fruta con chile y limón,
little bags of sliced mango, cucumber, and jicama usually sprin-
kled with Tajín, a spicy and sour snack seasoning. I make the
icy concoction in big batches, and it never lasts very long, but
a little advance prep and direction empowers my guests to blend
more themselves without disturbing my valuable chill time. I
peel and chop several cucumbers in advance, portion them out,
and freeze them before guests arrive; squeeze lots of lime into
a bowl; and chop an extra-big bunch of herbs on the side. The
chili-salt mixture sits on a plate on the counter for people to
sprinkle and rim as they please. And any extra doubles as sea-
soning for crunchy veggies, grilled corn on the cob, or a platter
of watermelon. It’s August at its best.
Frozen Cucumber
Margaritas with
Chili-Sumac Salt
(recipe p. 103)
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photography by VICTOR PROTASIO
