Food & Wine USA - (08)August 2019

(Comicgek) #1

BOTTLE SERVICEBOTTLE SERVICE


50 AUGUST 2019


MEDIUM-BODIED


& ELEGANT


With flavors typically leaning more
toward citrus than tropical fruit, these
Chardonnays walk a line between
Old World (i.e., Burgundian) and New
World (classic Californian) styles.

2017 VALRAVN SONOMA COUNTY


CHARDONNAY ($20)


A light touch of oak—it’s there, but it
lingers in the background—and fine-
tuned acidity help this vibrant Char-
donnay hover gracefully in the middle
of richer barrel-fermented styles and
the zing of cool-climate whites.

2017 SONOMA-CUTRER SONOMA
COAST CHARDONNAY ($23)
This bottling is perfect for anyone who
wants to bridge the gap separating
rich Chardonnays and more elegant
versions—in fact, I wavered on which
category to put it in. There’s toasty oak
here and plenty of ripe fruit, but vibrant
acidity gives the wine surprising lift.

2017 JORDAN CHARDONNAY ($34)
Jordan’s age-worthy Chardonnay (the
2011 is lovely right now) is classically
styled, but in a way that suggests the
strengths of both California and Bur-
gundy. Bright and crisp, its green-apple
notes are subtly shaded by French oak.

2016 RAMEY RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY


CHARDONNAY ($42)


David Ramey is one of California’s
acknowledged masters of Chardonnay.
His single-vineyard bottlings are exqui-
site, and even his more widely available
regional wines, like this focused, pear-
scented bottling, have the ability to age
in a cellar for years.

2016 DUMOL WESTER REACH
CHARDONNAY ($50)
The top wine in a blind tasting of 17
Sonoma Chardonnays I participated in
recently in California, DuMol’s Wester
Reach is savory and complex, its firm
acidity highlighting its exotic citrus
(think yuzu), tree fruit (white peach),
and spice flavors.
Free download pdf