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54 AUGUST 2019
THE ROSE
San Diego
Bottles from places as far-flung
as Georgia and Slovenia can
be purchased to go or, for a $10
corkage fee, opened right
then and there—The Rose is
a restaurant, too.
(therosewinebar.com)
LEFT BANK
Seattle
At his tiny South Park shop,
Campbell Scarborough gives
neighborhood residents small-
production, Old World wines,
often for under $25, that they
won’t find everywhere.
(leftbankseattle.com)
THE ROYCE
Detroit
“I’m definitely into off-the-
beaten-path varietals, such
as Sousón and Graciano from
Spain and Trousseau from
Oregon,” says owner Ping Ho.
Ho organizes most of his wines
based on weight rather than
region. (theroycedetroit.com)
UNGRAFTED
San Francisco
At this little 75-bottle wine
shop, sommeliers Fineman and
Gaither cull the selection from
their adjacent restaurant’s
1,000-bottle-plus wine list.
(ungraftedsf.com)
DEDALUS
Burlington, Vermont
At this bustling shop with its
busy wine bar, owner Jason
Zuliani features wines from the
Loire Valley, Beaujolais, and
Champagne, as well as wines
from new producers in Spain.
(dedaluswine.com)
LENELL’S BEVERAGE
BOUTIQUE
Birmingham, Alabama
Like a phoenix, Brooklyn’s best
booze shop was reborn in Bir-
mingham in 2018. In addition to
spirits, owner LeNell Camacho
Santa Ana (pictured at left)
highlights women winemakers,
winemakers of color, and the
best wines with cats and dogs
on the labels. (lenells.com)
Wine Shops
with Attitude
Next-Generation Wine Stores Small,
personality-driven collections
highlight off-the-beaten-path bottles.
By Megan Krigbaum
SHOP TALK
WALK INTO MOST WINE STORES and you’re likely to encounter an
overwhelming roll call of wines from every wine-producing country around
the globe. But lately, small stores are opening around the U.S. that feature
more tightly edited, personal selections. In fact, many of these new wine
shops are among the best places to drink a glass of wine, too, and have a
bar or café as part of their offering.
At The Rose in San Diego, co-owners Chelsea Coleman and Rae Gurne
and buyer Katie FawkesMoore simply stock wines that they like, which
Coleman says means a lot of bubbles and eastern European selections, as
well as local California wines and some from Mexico’s nearby Baja region.
For other shops, like Ungrafted in San Francisco, the mission is to sell
bottles that are wholly pleasurable and approachable. Master sommelier
Rebecca Fineman (co-owner with her husband, Chris Gaither, and two
additional partners) wants every bottle in their shop to be an easy-to-drink
crowd-pleaser—in other words, shelves full of sparkling wine and mostly
bottles under $50. Now that’s a point of view anyone could appreciate.
photography by WES FRAZER
