AUGUST 2020 991 / 2 cup granulated sugar
1 / 2 cup plus^1 / 2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
2 Tbsp. coriander seeds, crushed
1 / 2 tsp. coarsely ground black pepper
2 (^1 / 2 -lb.) skin-on trout, wild salmon,
or Arctic char fillets (about^1 /^3 inch
thick)
1 medium bunch fresh cilantro,
leaves and stems roughly chopped
(about^3 / 4 cup), plus fresh cilantro
leaves, for garnish
1 medium English cucumber, peeled,
halved lengthwise, seeds scraped,
and cut into^1 / 3 -inch-thick half-
moons (about 2 cups), divided
1 medium-size fresh jalapeño chile,
stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
lengthwise, divided
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, plus lime
wedges, for serving
1 Tbsp. water
1 medium spring onion, white bulb
halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
crosswise (about^1 / 4 cup) (reserve
green part for another use)
1 small avocado, chopped
1 / 2 tsp. flaky sea salt or to taste
Corn tostadas, for serving- Stir together sugar,^1 / 2 cup kosher salt,
coriander, and black pepper in a small
bowl. Spread about^1 / 4 cup sugar mixture
on a plate in an even layer about the size
of 1 trout fillet. Place 1 fillet, skin side
down, on sugar mixture on plate; top with
(^1) / 2 cup chopped cilantro and (^1) / 4 cup sugar
mixture. Top with remaining fillet, flesh
side down; sprinkle with remaining^1 / 2 cup
sugar mixture and remaining^1 / 4 cup
chopped cilantro. Wrap plate tightly with
plastic wrap. Chill until fish is slightly firm,
about 8 hours.
- Unwrap fillets, and brush off sugar mix-
ture and cilantro. Rinse fillets under cold
water; pat dry with paper towels. Process
(^1) / 2 cup cucumber, about three-fourths
of jalapeño, lime juice, and 1 tablespoon
water in a blender until smooth, about 20
seconds. Pour mixture through a fine wire-
mesh strainer into a bowl; discard solids.
Stir in remaining^1 / 2 teaspoon kosher salt.
Chill until ready to serve.
- Pour chilled cucumber-lime water on a
rimmed serving platter. Thinly slice trout
crosswise; discard skin. Arrange trout
pieces on platter. Top with spring onion,
avocado, remaining 1^1 / 2 cups cucumber,
and remaining jalapeño. Sprinkle with flaky
sea salt and cilantro leaves. Serve immedi-
ately with lime wedges and tostadas.
MAKE AHEAD Cured trout fillets can be
individually wrapped in plastic wrap and
chilled up to 3 days. Cucumber-lime water
can be made up to 1 day in advance.
WINE Vibrant, minerally, dry Riesling:
2016 Smith-Madrone Napa Valley
Pepita-Sesame Salsa Macha
PHOTO P. 96
TOTAL 15 MIN; SERVES 8 TO 10Classic salsa macha is a combination of
dried chiles, garlic, and peanuts. For her
version, Traci Des Jardins pairs sweet
guajillo chiles with sesame seeds and
pepitas, giving this salsa a subtle nuttiness
and crunchy texture. Serve this versatile
condiment with tortilla chips or the
Achiote-Marinated Quail with Grilled
Peaches on p. 100.2 Tbsp. white sesame seeds
2 Tbsp. black sesame seeds
1 cup neutral oil (such as canola,
grapeseed, or pure olive oil),
divided
10 medium-size dried guajillo chiles
(about 1^1 / 4 oz.), stemmed and
seeded
4 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
(about 2^1 / 2 Tbsp.)
3 / 4 cup raw pepitas (about 4^1 / 8 oz.)
11 /^2 tsp. kosher salt- Combine white and black sesame seeds
in a large skillet. Cook over medium-low,
stirring often, until fragrant and lightly
toasted, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from
skillet, and set aside. - Heat^1 / 2 cup oil in skillet over medium
until hot. Fry chiles in 2 batches, turn-
ing often and watching carefully to avoid
burning, until just starting to crisp in
spots but not blackened, 1 to 2 minutes.
Transfer chiles to a medium bowl. Reduce
heat to medium-low, and add garlic. Cook,
stirring constantly, until lightly browned,
30 seconds to 1 minute and 30 seconds.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer garlic to
bowl with chiles. - Add pepitas to skillet. Cook over
medium-low, stirring often, until mostly
golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain and
discard cooking oil. - Process chiles, garlic,^1 / 2 cup pepitas,
and remaining^1 / 2 cup oil in a blender until
mixture forms a coarse paste, about 20
seconds, stopping to scrape down sides as
needed. Add remaining^1 / 4 cup pepitas, and
pulse until coarsely broken, 5 to 8 times.
Stir in toasted sesame seeds and salt.
MAKE AHEAD Salsa can be stored in an
airtight container in refrigerator up to 2
weeks.
Grilled Corn with Cotija and
Quicos
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 30 MIN
SERVES 8
Hot off the grill, charred sweet corn gets
slathered in tangy lime mayonnaise and
topped with extra-crunchy quicos, or
Spanish-style corn nuts, in this take on
Mexican street corn.
1 large pasteurized egg yolk
1 tsp. fresh lime juice, plus lime
wedges, for serving
1 / 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 / 2 cup grapeseed oil, plus more for
grill grates
2 tsp. water, if needed
Black pepper, to taste
Piment d’Espelette, cayenne
pepper, or paprika, to taste
8 medium ears fresh corn, husks
pulled back, silk removed
1 oz. Cotija cheese, grated on a
Microplane (about^1 / 2 cup)
1 / 2 cup crushed quicos or corn nuts
(about 1 oz.)
- Preheat grill to high (450°F to 500°F).
Whisk together egg yolk, lime juice, and
salt in a medium bowl. Whisking con-
stantly, gradually drizzle in oil until mix-
ture is smooth and thick. Whisk in up to 2
teaspoons water,^1 / 2 teaspoon at a time, to
loosen mixture, if needed. Season to taste
with salt, black pepper, and piment
d’Espelette. Set aside. - Place corn on oiled grill grates, posi-
tioning husks over edge of grill to prevent
burning. Grill, uncovered, turning occa-
sionally, until corn is tender and slightly
charred, 6 to 8 minutes. - Brush hot corn with lime mayonnaise
(about 1 tablespoon per ear). Sprinkle with
cheese, quicos, and piment d’Espelette, to
taste. Serve with lime wedges.
MAKE AHEAD Mayonnaise can be stored
in an airtight container in refrigerator up
to 3 days.
NOTE Quicos (giant corn nuts) may be
purchased on amazon.com.
Coriander-Cured Trout
Aguachile
PHOTO P. 91
TOTAL 30 MIN, PLUS 8 HR CHILLING
SERVES 6 TO 8
Lightly curing the trout in salt, sugar, and
crushed spices firms the fish and infuses
it with flavor before it’s served with a
bright and tangy lime dressing. If spring
onions are unavailable, substitute thinly
sliced red onion. Rinse the red onion slices
in cold water to mellow their sharper bite.
Des Jardins typically preps everything
for dinner in the afternoon before
heading back to the lake until early
evening. “Sometimes I end up staying
out until 8 p.m., and then dinner is
really late,” she says with a laugh.