HANDBOOK36 AUGUST 2020
OVER THE PAST DECADE, chefs and fast-food
chains alike have relentlessly riffed on the
Southern fried chicken sandwich. Tradi-
tionally a piece of boneless fried chicken on
a burger bun with pickle chips and, some-
times, mayo, these days they’re often spiced
and sauced to the edge and back. True of
all takes: They’re joy-inducing hunger
crushers, pairing equally well with Coke
or Chardonnay.
And while the new-age versions are fun
to try, we find ourselves coming back time
after time to the classic. Really great fried
chicken sandwiches start with really great
fried chicken. Boneless, skinless thighs be-
come extra-juicy, tender, and full of umami
when pre-seasoned with salty dill pickle
brine and dried chiles and alliums, which
are more concentrated-tasting than fresh.
A dunk in a buttermilk-egg mixture and a
single dredge in a peppered cornstarch-
flour blend yields a super-crunchy crust
that’s just thin enough to fit comfortably in
a bun. Cooked in a thin layer of oil in your
favorite skillet, this fried chicken is entry-
level—great for first-time fryers and easy
enough to cook for a hungry crowd without
destroying your kitchen.
The assembly is simple, a sum of parts
that flatters the crispy thighs like a pair of
vintage Levis. The bun must be soft yet
sturdy enough to contain the crunch. The
lettuce should be ice-cold and shredded.
Pickles and mayo are nonnegotiable.
Tomato is optional, to be applied only in
season.
From there, let your family and friends
choose their own adventure, drizzling on
their choice of easy sauces (see sidebar at
right) before two-handing these super
summer sammies. —MARY-FRANCES HECKSUPER-CRISPYFRIED CHICKENPRE-SEASON Tenderize and season the
chicken thighs with a mixture of pickle brine
and dried spices for deep flavor that can
stand up in a sandwich.1 2
GET SET UP Combine ingredients for the
buttermilk-egg wash and cornstarch-flour
dredge in wide, shallow dishes. Place the
dishes near the stove.5 6
SHALLOW FRY Carefully place chicken in
hot oil, taking care not to overcrowd skillet.
Adjust heat as needed to maintain oil tem-
perature of 350°F.FLIP AND BASTE Turn chicken pieces with
tongs every 1 to 2 minutes to brown the crust
evenly. Use a metal spoon to baste chicken
with oil, which will help with even browning.DIP Add chicken thighs to buttermilk mix-
ture. The buttermilk adds tang and hydrates
the flour for a crunchy, sealed crust; the egg
helps the crust adhere to the chicken.3
DREDGE Add the chicken pieces to the
flour mixture, coating each piece completely.
Gently shake off the excess into the bowl;
flour that falls into the oil will burn.4ILLUSTRATIO
NS:^ RACHEL^ CARNEY