Food & Wine USA - (08)August 2020

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50 AUGUST 2020

Grilled Boneless Short Ribs

with Scallion-Sumac Gremolata

TOTAL 45 MIN; SERVES 4

11 / 2 Tbsp. fish sauce

4 (8-oz.) boneless beef short ribs

3 garlic cloves, divided

2 Tbsp. light brown sugar

6 scallions

2 tsp. canola oil, plus more for grill

grates

1 /^3 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf

parsley

2 tsp. grated orange zest

11 /^2 tsp. sumac

1 / 2 tsp. kosher salt

1 / 4 tsp. black pepper

1 / 2 tsp. flaky sea salt

1. Brush fish sauce on all sides of short
   ribs. Grate 2 garlic cloves using a Micro-
   plane; place in a small bowl. Add brown
   sugar to garlic, and stir to combine. Rub
   garlic mixture on all sides of short ribs.
   Let stand at room temperature while pre-
   paring grill.


2. Open bottom vent of grill completely.
   Light charcoal chimney starter filled with
   briquettes. When briquettes are covered
   with gray ash, pour them evenly onto bot-
   tom grate of grill. Drizzle scallions with oil;
   toss to coat. Coat top grill grate with oil.
   Cover and heat grill to medium-high
   (400°F to 450°F). Place scallions on oiled
   grate. Grill, uncovered, turning often, until
   medium-charred, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer
   to a cutting board; let cool slightly.


3. Arrange short ribs on oiled grate. Grill,
   covered, flipping every 2 minutes, until a
   thermometer inserted in thickest portion
   registers 125°F to 130°F, 10 to 12 minutes.
   Remove short ribs from grill; let stand 5
   minutes.


4. Mince remaining garlic clove; place in a
   small bowl. Add parsley, orange zest,
   sumac, kosher salt, and pepper. Rub
   together with fingers to combine.


5. Thinly slice grilled scallions. Add to
   parsley mixture; toss gently to combine.
   Cut short ribs against the grain into thin
   slices; sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Serve
   with gremolata.
   WINE Aromatic, peppery Syrah: 2017
   Melville Estate
   NOTE If boneless are not available, ask
   your butcher to slice English-cut short
   ribs off the bone into rectangular steaks.

TURNS OUT, my favorite “steak” to grill isn’t a steak at all—it’s beautifully

marbled boneless short ribs. Typically destined for cold-weather stews and

braises, these beefy guys deserve an invitation to your grill before summer

winds down. Cooked over direct heat to just above medium-rare, they slice

up to juicy, steak-like perfection.

To amplify their meaty goodness, season the short ribs with a quick rub of

fish sauce, grated garlic, and brown sugar. The sugar delivers charred edges

despite the short cook time; the fish sauce and garlic amp up the umami,

elevating the ribs to proper-noun status. They become, in short, the Beefiest

Beef in Beef Town. The finishing touch is a fresh gremolata of grilled scallions,

parsley, garlic, orange zest, and sumac. You get lovely layers of citrus and floral

flavors along with the grassy punch of parsley and savory oomph of scallions.

It’s just what proper-noun Beef wants. —ANN TAYLOR PITTMAN

Short Cuts Crank up the heat to grill

short ribs in minutes.

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