Food & Wine USA - (09)September 2019

SEPTEMBER 2019 97

and flaky texture, and the citrus zest

added just before serving brightens the

whole dish.

11 / 4 cups dashi

2 Tbsp. mirin

11 / 2 Tbsp. light soy sauce (usukuchi)

4 (3-oz.) skin-on fish fillets (snapper,

whitefish, or halibut)

1 lemon verbena sprig, or 2 scallions

finely chopped

2 oz. Japanese mountain yam

(yamaimo), grated on a Microplane

2 shiitake mushroom caps, thinly

sliced (about^3 / 8 oz.)

1 yuzu or lemon, zested, for serving

Shredded nori, for serving

1. Combine dashi, mirin, and soy sauce in
   a medium saucepan, and cook over
   medium, stirring often, until warm, about
   5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover, and
   keep warm.


2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over
   medium-high. Divide fish among 4
   (8-ounce) heatproof bowls; place bowls in
   a bamboo steamer basket. Ladle^1 / 4 cup
   warm dashi mixture into each bowl; add a
   small leaf of lemon verbena (or sprinkle
   evenly with chopped scallions). Place
   bamboo steamer basket over boiling
   water, cover, and steam 4 minutes.


3. While fish steams, stir together yam
   and shiitake slices in a small bowl. When
   fish has steamed 4 minutes, spoon 1
   tablespoon yam mixture into each bowl.
   Cover and steam 2 minutes.


4. Sprinkle each fillet with a pinch of yuzu
   zest; serve with shredded nori.
   WINE Earthy Pinot Meunier–based
   Champagne: NV Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes
   de Vrigny

Grilled Wagyu Rib Eye with

Roasted Fig Miso

PHOTO P. 91

ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 45 MIN

SERVES 4

Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama

give tender, marbled grilled Wagyu a hit of

savory, lightly sweet flavor from the

roasted fig miso sauce. Use leftover sauce

to slather on ribs before grilling. If fresh

figs are not available, use frozen figs

rather than dried. Just make sure to thaw

them beforehand for the best texture.

6 large fresh black Mission figs

(about 12 oz.)

2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

1 tsp. kosher salt, divided

(^1) / (^4) cup finely chopped leeks or
scallions (white and light green
parts only)
2 Tbsp. sake
2 Tbsp. mirin
(^1) / 2 cup red miso
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 (12-oz.) boneless Wagyu rib eye
steak
(^1) / (^4) tsp. black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss together
   figs, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and^1 / 4 tea-
   spoon salt on a rimmed baking sheet.
   Bake in preheated oven until figs are
   slightly caramelized and soft, about 20
   minutes.


2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in
   a medium saucepan over medium. Add
   chopped leeks, and cook until soft, about
   1 minute. Add sake and mirin, and cook,
   stirring often, until liquid is reduced by
   half, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low.
   Stir in miso, and cook, stirring often, until
   mixture thickens and darkens in color,
   about 5 minutes. Remove miso mixture
   from heat.


3. Using a fork, break cooked figs apart,
   removing stems. Combine figs, miso mix-
   ture, and balsamic vinegar in a food pro-
   cessor. Pulse until mostly smooth, about
   20 times. Set aside.


4. Preheat grill to very high (550°F to
   600°F). Season rib eye with pepper and
   remaining^3 / 4 teaspoon salt. Place on oiled
   grates; grill, covered, until a meat ther-
   mometer registers 130°F, about 4 min-
   utes per side. Remove from grill, and let
   rest 5 minutes. While steak rests, heat fig
   miso over low. Slice beef, and serve with
   fig miso.
   MAKE AHEAD Fig miso may be made up to
   3 weeks ahead. Cover and chill until ready
   to serve.
   WINE Complex, savory rosé: 2017 Clos
   Cibonne Tibouren

Persimmon and
Chrysanthemum Greens
Ohitashi
PHOTO P. 93

TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 4

In this dish from Prairie Stuart-Wolff,
sweet, plush, and lightly tart persimmons
are the perfect balance to spinach-like
chrysanthemum greens. If you can’t find
them, look for a green that wilts but
remains crunchy, like arugula, spinach, or
baby kale.

1 medium-size ripe Fuyu persimmon

1 Tbsp. fresh or bottled yuzu juice
61 / 2 oz. edible chrysanthemum greens
(shungiku) or arugula
21 / 2 tsp. sesame oil

(^1) / 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
(^1) / 2 tsp. light soy sauce (usukuchi)
(^3) / 8 tsp. kosher salt

1. Using a Y-shaped vegetable peeler,
   remove and discard thick persimmon
   skin. Cut into wedges, and cut into
   smaller bite-size chunks. Place in a
   medium bowl; add yuzu juice, and toss to
   coat. Set aside.


2. Place greens in a large saucepan, and
   add water to cover. Bring to a boil, and
   cook until just blanched, about 30 sec-
   onds. Immediately transfer greens to a
   bowl of ice water. Squeeze greens, remov-
   ing as much water as you can. (You
   should have about^1 / 2 cup squeezed
   greens.) Chop greens into^1 / 2 -inch pieces.
   Add chopped greens to persimmon mix-
   ture; toss to combine. Stir in sesame oils,
   soy sauce, and salt.

MAKE AHEAD Ohitashi may be prepared
up to 6 hours ahead; keep chilled until
ready to serve.

Steamed Whitefish Yamakake
PHOTO OPPOSITE PAGE

ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 20 MIN
SERVES 4

An intensely concentrated broth and rich
shiitake mushrooms contrast with deli-
cate whitefish in this recipe from Niki
Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama.
Gently steaming the fish gives it a light

“OUR STYLE OF EATING TAKES ITS CUES FROM CHA-KAISEKI, THE MEAL THAT IS PART OF THE TEA

CEREMONY. TIMING, TEMPERATURE, THE STYLE AND USE OF CERAMIC UTENSILS—EACH IS AS

CONSIDERED AS THE INGREDIENTS THEMSELVES. THIS IS WHAT I MOST LOOKED FORWARD TO SHARING,

THROUGH THE FLAVORS OF KARATSU IN AUTUMN.” —PRAIRIE STUART-WOLFF