Food & Wine USA - (09)September 2019

SEPTEMBER 2019 103

I GREW UP EATING FILIPINO FOOD in Detroit, but it wasn’t

until I went back to the Philippines that I realized how

my family’s cooking was limited by the ingredients avail-

able to us in the United States. Bulalo, a hearty stew with

beef shank, fish sauce, and cabbage, is among the dishes

that simply tasted better at the source. We’d go to restau-

rants that specialized in bulalo whenever we took family

trips to an area called Tagaytay, and it blew my mind

that something this simple could be so delicious. Since

then, I’ve experimented with both a com-

posed and a rustic version for the menu

at my restaurant, Magna, and whenever

I cook it, I think of my dad, who passed

away in 2009. He always felt it was his

duty to really expose us to the culture and

the food of the Philippines. I just try to

spark that emotional connection, because

that’s what food does: invoke emotions.

—Carlo Lamagna, chef-owner of forthcom-

ing restaurant Magna in Portland, Oregon

Filipino Beef Shank Soup

ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 20 MIN

SERVES 6

Bulalo, a brothy stew from the Philippines,

is enriched by the marrow and collagen

from meaty beef shanks. Corn, green

beans, and cabbage added near the end

of cooking deliver a contrasting fresh

crunch.

7 lb. meaty beef shanks, cut

crosswise into 2-inch pieces

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

1 medium-size (9 oz.) sweet onion,

thinly sliced (about 1^1 / 2 cups)

3 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic

2 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled fresh

ginger

4 qt. beef stock or chicken stock

(^1) / 4 cup fish sauce (such as Megachef
or Red Boat), plus more to taste
11 / 2 Tbsp. black pepper, plus more to
taste
1 Thai chile, thinly sliced (optional)
2 ears fresh sweet corn, shucked and
cut into thirds
24 green beans, trimmed
(^1) / 2 head napa cabbage, thinly sliced
(about 8 cups)

1. Place beef shanks in a large stockpot,
   and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil
   over high; reduce heat to medium-low,
   and simmer 10 minutes. Skim and discard
   any scum and fat that come to surface.
   Remove beef shanks, and set aside. Dis-
   card cooking liquid. Clean pot. (This step
   guarantees a clean and clear broth.)


2. Heat oil in pot over medium-high. Add
   onion, garlic, and ginger; cook, stirring
   occasionally, until onion is translucent
   and mixture is aromatic, about 3 minutes.


3. Return beef shanks to pot; add stock.
   Bring to a boil over high; reduce heat to
   medium-low to maintain a simmer. Skim
   and discard any scum that surfaces. Add
   fish sauce and black pepper; simmer until
   beef is tender, 2 hours and 30 minutes to
   3 hours.


4. Add chile slices, if using, and simmer 3
   minutes. Add corn; simmer 6 minutes.
   Add green beans; simmer 3 minutes. Add
   cabbage, and simmer until crisp-tender,
   about 3 minutes. Add fish sauce and
   black pepper to taste. —CARLO LAMAGNA
   MAKE AHEAD Prepare bulalo through step


5. Let cool to room temperature, cover,
   and refrigerate up to 2 days. Reheat
   before proceeding with step 4.
   WINE Crisp, herbal Cabernet Franc: 2017
   Charles Joguet Cuvée Terroir Chinon

A BOWL OF SOUL

TAGAYTAY, PHILIPPINES