SEPTEMBER 2019 109
BEFORE OPENING my new restaurant, Cabra, I traveled to Peru to spend some
time with chef Gastón Acurio and eat my way around Lima, Arequipa, and
Cuzco. While I was visiting the Miraflores neighborhood in Lima, I ate at
the most amazing restaurant called Grimanesa Anticucheria. It is a tiny
place run by Grimanesa Vargas, who has decades of experience cooking
anticuchos, meat that is marinated in chiles and cooked over hot flames.
She cooked it first at a very popular cart and now at her own restaurant.
The menu is short, with just a few types of anticuchos including beef heart
and chicken. Local chiles called ají panca permeate the marinade; they have
a distinct, earthy spiciness to them. At Cabra, inspired by those skewers,
we serve a handful of anticuchos, including this chicken version, which
we serve with a Huacatay Dipping Sauce (recipe p. 118), a spicy, creamy
condiment flavored with huacatay, or black mint paste. —Stephanie Izard,
chef-owner of Cabra, Duck Duck Goat, Girl & the Goat, and Little Goat in
Chicago and a 2011 F&W Best New Chef
SERIOUSLY GOOD SKEWERS
LIMA, PERU
Peruvian Chicken Skewers
ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 35 MIN
MAKES 8 SKEWERSPeruvian anticuchos de pollo are coated in
a thick chile marinade that withstands the
heat of the grill and clings to the chicken,
yielding caramelized, charred bits.(^1) / (^2) cup ají panca paste (about 4 oz.)
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. gochujang
1 Tbsp. tamari or soy sauce
11 / 2 tsp. toasted cumin seeds
(^1) / 4 tsp. dried Mexican oregano
(^1) / 8 tsp. black pepper
1 large garlic clove
11 / 2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken
thighs, cut into 1-inch cubes
Huacatay Dipping Sauce
(recipe p. 118)
- Soak 8 (12-inch) wooden skewers in
water 30 minutes. - Meanwhile, preheat grill to very high
(500°F to 550°F). Place ají panca paste,
olive oil, vinegar, gochujang, tamari,
cumin, oregano, pepper, and garlic in a
blender; process until smooth, about 1
minute. Transfer mixture to a medium
bowl; add chicken, and stir to coat. Let
stand 5 minutes at room temperature. - Remove skewers from water. Thread 4
to 5 chicken pieces onto each skewer,
leaving a^1 / 2 -inch space between pieces.
Place kebabs on oiled grates; grill, cov-
ered, until charred and cooked through,
about 4 minutes per side. Serve with hua-
catay dipping sauce.
WINE Lively South American red: 2016
Veramonte Ritual Pinot Noir