OCTOBER 2020 87BRAISED DUCK LEGS WITH SPAETZLE AND MUSHROOM RAGOUT Baden, Germany
In the Old World, harvest meals formed around foods that were available locally in autumn and became firmly linked over hundreds of
years: In Germany’s Baden wine region, on the edge of the Black Forest, poultry are preserved in their rich fat around harvest time. My
grandfather lived near there when white wines dominated the area, but over the past two decades, some of the most beautiful Pinot Noirs
in the world have emerged from the Baden region. Any Spätburgunder (the German word for the grape) produced by J.B. Becker or Franz
Keller would rock with this dish. The sensuality of their Pinot Noirs plays beautifully with the umami of the mushrooms, and high-toned
brightness from fresh acidity makes a direct hit on the richness of the duck and adds a two-step to the flavor dance in your mouth.Adding fresh thyme to the braise for these
duck legs before they chill overnight adds a
ton of flavor. In the morning, reheat the
hardened fat and spoon it over the bird.