OCTOBER 2020 91
onion and^1 / 2 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring
often, until onion is softened and lightly
browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato.
Cook, stirring often, until tomato breaks
down and begins to caramelize, 3 to 4
minutes.
- Stir in piquillo peppers, pimentón, saf-
fron mixture, and remaining 3 teaspoons
salt until well combined. Add rice, and
cook, stirring constantly, until well coated
and very lightly toasted, about 2 minutes.
Stir in zucchini mixture, wine, parsley,
and remaining 3 cups water until com-
bined. Spread mixture in an even layer.
Transfer pan to preheated oven. Bake
until liquid is absorbed, rice is tender, and
top is lightly browned, 34 to 38 minutes.
- Return pan to stovetop over medium-
low. Cook, occasionally rotating pan
over burner for even browning, until rice
smells faintly nutty and you hear a con-
stant crackling sound, 6 to 8 minutes.
Remove from heat, and let stand 15 min-
utes. Garnish with parsley, and serve with
lemon wedges.
WINE Darkly fruity, earthy Tinta de Toro:
2018 Kiko Calvo Bigardo
NOTE Find high-quality Kashmiri saffron
at kalustyans.com.
Cape Malay Chicken Curry
PHOTO P. 80
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR; SERVES 6
Served over creamy mielie pap, this mild
chicken curry gets its gentle heat from
grassy jalapeño and spicy ginger. Consid-
ered a South African staple, this recipe’s
roots can be traced back to the Indone-
sian and Southeast Asian homelands of
the enslaved Cape Malay people who
were brought to the country centuries
ago.
1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick
2 tsp. fennel seeds
1 (3^1 / 2 - to 4^1 / 2 -lb.) whole chicken, cut
into 10 bone-in pieces
1 Tbsp. plus 2^1 /^2 tsp. kosher salt,
divided, plus more to taste
2 Tbsp. neutral oil (such as
grapeseed)
2 medium-size yellow onions, cut
into^1 / 2 -inch-thick slices (about 5
cups)
2 medium jalapeño chiles, halved
lengthwise, seeded, and thinly
sliced (about^1 / 3 cup)
2 Tbsp. grated peeled fresh ginger
2 Tbsp. curry powder
3 medium garlic cloves, finely
chopped
1 (15-oz.) can diced tomatoes,
undrained
1 cup water
1 / 4 cup mango chutney or apricot
preserves
2 fresh or dried bay leaves
11 / 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Mielie Pap (recipe follows)
Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
- Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat cinnamon
stick and fennel seeds in a small skillet
over medium-low, stirring often, until
lightly toasted and fragrant, 1 to 2 min-
utes. Transfer to a spice grinder; process
until very finely ground, about 45 sec-
onds. Set aside. - Sprinkle chicken pieces all over with 1
tablespoon salt. Heat oil in a large Dutch
oven over medium-high. Working in 2
batches, cook chicken until browned
on all sides, 8 to 12 minutes per batch.
Transfer chicken to a plate. - Reduce heat under Dutch oven to
medium. Add onions and^1 / 2 teaspoon
salt; cook, stirring occasionally and
scraping bottom of Dutch oven to loosen
any browned bits, until onions are soft-
ened, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in jalapeños,
ginger, curry powder, garlic, and ground
cinnamon mixture. Cook, stirring often,
until fragrant, about 2 minutes. - Stir undrained tomatoes into curry
mixture; cook, stirring occasionally, until
liquid reduces and forms a thick paste, 3
to 4 minutes. Stir in 1 cup water, chutney,
bay leaves, and remaining 2 teaspoons
salt. Nestle chicken pieces into mixture.
Bring to a boil over medium. Reduce heat
to low; cover and cook until a thermome-
ter inserted in thickest portion of chicken
thighs registers 165°F, 20 to 25 minutes. - Stir lime juice into curry mixture; sea-
son with salt to taste. Ladle curry over
mielie pap; garnish with cilantro.
MAKE AHEAD Chicken curry may be
stored in an airtight container in
refrigerator up to 3 days.
WINE Fresh, citrusy South African white:
2019 Radley & Finch Viking Point
Sauvignon Blanc
Mielie Pap (Cornmeal Porridge)
PHOTO P. 82
ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN; SERVES 6
Mielie pap is a South African cornmeal
porridge with a thick, creamy consistency;
its mild flavor is the perfect base for spicy,
flavorful dishes like Cape Malay Chicken
Curry. Here we use stone-ground polenta;
it will still be a bit loose after cooking but
will quickly set to the perfect consistency.
6 cups water
1 / 2 cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), divided
11 / 2 cups uncooked stone-ground white
polenta (about 7 oz.)
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to
taste
- Bring 6 cups water and 6 tablespoons
butter to a boil in a large saucepan over
medium-high. Gradually add polenta,
whisking constantly. Reduce heat to low;
cook, whisking constantly, until mixture
thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. - Continue cooking, uncovered, whisking
occasionally and scraping bottom of pan,
until polenta is tender and thickened,
about 30 minutes. Whisk in salt, and add
more to taste. Transfer mielie pap to a
serving bowl, and top with remaining 2
tablespoons butter. Serve immediately.
Mushroom Ragout
PHOTO P. 87
TOTAL 25 MIN; SERVES 6
Sautéed with shallots and simmered in
dry white wine, these tender mushrooms
pair perfectly with braised duck legs and
pan-crisped spaetzle (recipes p. 86). Be
sure to cook the mushrooms in batches;
each type cooks differently, and the cook
times are crucial to preserve the texture
of each variety. Don’t stir the mushrooms
too frequently while cooking; letting them
sit in the pan a bit allows them to develop
deeper color and flavor.
1 lb. fresh cremini mushrooms
1 lb. fresh oyster mushrooms or hen-
of-the-woods mushrooms
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 / 2 cup finely chopped shallots,
divided
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
to taste
1 tsp. black pepper, divided, plus
more to taste
1 / 2 cup (4 oz.) dry white wine, divided
- Clean mushrooms thoroughly, keeping
each variety separate. Cut large mush-
rooms into bite-size pieces; leave small
mushrooms whole. - Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large skillet
over high. Add cremini mushrooms; cook,
stirring occasionally, until creminis are
golden brown and tender, 8 to 12 min-
utes. Add^1 / 4 cup shallots, 1 teaspoon salt,
and^1 / 2 teaspoon pepper; cook, stirring
constantly, until shallots are softened,
about 45 seconds. Add^1 / 4 cup wine; cook,
stirring often, until liquid has completely
evaporated, about 1 minute. Transfer
cremini mixture to a large bowl; do not
wipe skillet clean. Repeat process using
remaining oil, oyster mushrooms, shal-
lots, salt, pepper, and wine. - Stir together both mushroom varieties
in a bowl; season with salt and pepper to
taste. Serve warm.