Food & Wine USA - (10)October 2020

OCTOBER 2020 99

“Vissi d’arte”

LEONTYNE PRICE

“‘I lived for art, I lived for

love.’ The first lines of this

impassioned aria, [sung

by Price,] who serves up

the essence of Southern

goodness, inspire me

to translate her artistic

expression as an ingredi-

ent on my plate.”

3. Stir in catfish and shrimp, and reduce
   heat to low. Cover and cook until catfish
   and shrimp are cooked through, 5 to 8
   minutes. Remove and discard bay leaves.
   Season to taste with salt and pepper.
   Serve with black rice; garnish servings
   with scallions, and drizzle with olive oil.
   —ALEXANDER SMALLS

WINE Berry-scented, lightly spicy

California rosé: 2018 McBride Sisters

Collection Black Girl Magic Rosé

NOTE Black rice is available at Whole

Foods or amazon.com.

Deviled Crab–Stuffed Mini

Cornbread Muffins

PHOTO P. 95

ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 35 MIN

SERVES 12

Smalls pairs creamy, slightly spicy fresh

deviled crab with tender corn muffins,

studded with corn kernels, for a quick two-

bite appetizer. Choose fresh crab over

pasteurized for the best flavor.

DEVILED CRAB

4 oz. fresh lump crabmeat (about^3 / 4

cup), drained and picked

1 / 4 cup panko

2 scallions, finely chopped

3 Tbsp. mayonnaise

2 Tbsp. finely chopped jalapeño

3 / 4 tsp. paprika

3 / 4 tsp. kosher salt

1 / 4 tsp. celery seeds

1 /^4 tsp. cayenne pepper, or more to

taste

MUFFINS

1 / 3 cup fine yellow or white cornmeal

(about 1^1 /^4 oz.)

1 / 3 cup all-purpose flour (about 1^1 / 2 oz.)

1 Tbsp. light brown sugar

3 / 4 tsp. ground coriander

3 / 4 tsp. kosher salt

1 / 2 tsp. baking powder

1 / 2 cup buttermilk

2 large eggs, beaten

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

1 / 2 cup fresh or thawed frozen yellow

corn kernels (about 2^1 / 4 oz.)

Cooking spray

Finely chopped fresh cilantro, for

garnish

1. Make the deviled crab: Preheat oven to
   400°F. Stir together crabmeat, panko,
   scallions, mayonnaise, jalapeño, paprika,
   salt, celery seeds, and cayenne in a small
   bowl until crabmeat breaks apart into
   shreds and mixture is evenly combined.
   Set aside.


2. Make the muffins: Whisk together
   cornmeal, flour, brown sugar, coriander,
   salt, and baking powder in a medium
   bowl. Whisk together buttermilk, eggs,
   and oil in a small bowl. Add buttermilk
   mixture to cornmeal mixture; whisk
   until smooth. Stir in corn kernels. Lightly
   grease (with cooking spray) a 24-cup
   miniature muffin pan. Divide cornmeal
   mixture evenly among muffin cups (about
   1 tablespoon each). Spoon about 1^1 / 4
   teaspoons deviled crab in center of bat-
   ter in each cup. Bake in preheated oven
   until lightly browned and a toothpick
   inserted in center comes out clean, 12 to
   15 minutes.


3. Carefully remove muffins from pan,
   and place on a serving platter. Sprinkle
   with chopped cilantro, and serve warm.
   —ALEXANDER SMALLS

MAKE AHEAD Deviled crab mixture can be

made up to 1 day ahead and stored in an

airtight container in refrigerator. Muffins

can be baked up to 2 hours ahead and

reheated in a 200°F oven until just warm,

3 to 5 minutes.

WINE Lively, lemony white: 2019 Sun

Goddess Sauvignon Blanc

Carolina Fish, Shrimp, and Okra

Stew with Black Rice

ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN

SERVES 6 TO 8

Smalls builds rich flavor into this low-

country stew with a quick homemade
stock using shrimp shells —a move that

minimizes food waste and makes use of

the crustacean’s full potential. Worcester-

shire adds an additional hit of umami,

while okra helps thicken the broth.

1 lb. raw medium shrimp, peeled and
deveined, shells reserved

3 cups water

11 /^2 lb. skinless catfish or cod fillets
(halve fillets lengthwise if large),
cut crosswise into 1-inch strips

1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste

2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for
drizzling

2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour

1 large white onion, chopped

1 large red bell pepper, chopped

2 medium celery stalks, chopped

3 medium garlic cloves, chopped

1 (15-oz.) can diced tomatoes,
undrained

8 oz. fresh okra, stemmed, cut
crosswise into^1 / 2 -inch pieces, or 2
cups frozen sliced okra

2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

2 fresh or dried bay leaves

2 tsp. Creole seasoning

1 / 2 tsp. black pepper, plus more to
taste

Cooked black rice (such as Nature’s
Earthly Choice), for serving

Thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

1. Combine shrimp shells and 3 cups

water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a

simmer over medium. Remove from heat,

and let stand 15 minutes. Pour mixture
through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a

bowl; discard solids. Set stock aside. Toss

together catfish pieces and salt in a large

bowl. Cover and chill until ready to use, up

to 1 hour.

2. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over

medium. Add flour; cook, whisking con-
stantly, until smooth and lightly browned,

about 1 minute. Add onion, bell pepper,

celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring often and

scraping bottom of Dutch oven to prevent

scorching, until softened, 8 to 10 min-

utes. Stir in shrimp stock, tomatoes with
juices, okra, Worcestershire, thyme, bay

leaves, Creole seasoning, and black pep-

per. Bring to a simmer over medium-high.

Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and

simmer until okra is almost tender, about
15 minutes.

ALEXANDER SMALLS’ DINNER PARTY PLAYLIST

FAVORITE SONGS FOR COOKING

“Sinnerman”

NINA SIMONE

“Nina sets the mood for

me. The song is full of

energy and urgency. Her

tonality and commanding

presence get my creative

juices going.”

“I Got You (I Feel

Good)”

JAMES BROWN

“From the Godfather of

Soul, this is a tune of cel-

ebration and joy, which is

how I feel when I cook for

my friends and guests. I

feel good!”