AT MY TABLE
with
GAIL
SIMMONS104 NOVEMBER 2018
A Taste of Home
AS A CANADIAN LIVING IN THE UNITED STATES, I can’t help but envy my
American friends around hanksgiving. More than any other holiday,
this one comes with loads of (nondenominational, bipartisan) family
traditions, mostly centered around the kitchen. Sure, Canada has its
own hanksgiving, modeled after its U.S. counterpart, but it’s not nearly
as obsessively food-focused nor as widely celebrated.
Over the two decades I’ve lived in New York, my husband and I have
observed American hanksgiving by joining friends at their family tables,
making our own “Friendsgiving,” or using the long weekend to travel.
But now that I have two (American) children, I feel the need to establish
our own traditions. hese popovers seem like a good place to start.
Popovers are America’s answer to British Yorkshire pudding. Festive
and comforting, they’re made by adding hot fat to the bottom of indi-
vidual tins before pouring in a rich, eggy batter, which causes them to
puff up and “pop” over the sides of the pan. I had never had a popover
until I moved to the States but quickly fell in love with them, especially
when I realized how easy they are to make and how satisfying when
eaten right out of the oven. My version includes maple syrup and bacon
in the batter, giving the adapted American dish a distinctly Canadian
accent, just like me. With a little luck, they’ll remain part of our fam-
ily’s hanksgiving meal—and become part of yours—for years to come.Maple-Bacon Popovers
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN
SERVES 12Preheating the popover or
muffin pan in the oven is key to
making these eggy, maple-
glazed breads. Serve them as a
side dish at Thanksgiving or
for breakfast on Black Friday.1 cup finely chopped thick-
cut bacon slices
1 / 4 cup unsalted butter,
melted, divided
1 cup all-purpose flour
(about 4^1 / 4 oz.)
1 tsp. kosher salt
3 / 4 cup whole milk, at room
temperature
1 / 4 cup Grade A Dark pure
maple syrup, plus more for
brushing
4 large eggs, at room
temperature- Preheat oven to 425°F with
oven rack in lower third of oven.
Cook chopped bacon in a
medium nonstick skillet over
medium-high, stirring occasion-
ally, until crisp and golden, 5 to 7
minutes. Using a slotted spoon,
transfer to a plate lined with
paper towels. Allow drippings to
cool slightly in skillet, about 5
minutes; pour into a small heat-
proof bowl. - Add 2 tablespoons melted
butter to drippings; stir to com-
bine. Spoon 1 teaspoon drip-
pings mixture into each cup of a
12-cup popover pan or large
muffin pan. (Discard any remain-
ing drippings mixture.) Place pan
in oven to heat. - Stir together flour and salt in a
medium bowl. Whisk together
milk, maple syrup, eggs, and
remaining 2 tablespoons butter
in a large bowl. Gradually whisk
flour mixture into egg mixture
until almost smooth; fold in
cooked bacon. Transfer batter to
a 4-cup spouted measuring cup. - Carefully remove hot pan from
oven. Pour batter into popover
cups, filling each two-thirds full.
Bake in preheated oven until
popovers are puffed and golden
brown, 18 to 20 minutes. Lightly
brush tops with additional maple
syrup. Remove from pan, and
serve immediately.
PHOTOGRAPHY: VICTOR PROTASIO; FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: AUDREY DAVIS. (PORTRAIT) GUERIN BLASK