NOVEMBER 2018 55RENCH WINE FOR THANKSGIVING? Sacrilege! Why not
drink something all-American, like Zinfandel ... oh
wait, that probably has its origins in Croatia, where it’s
known as Crljenak Kaštelanski.
he truth is, almost all of the wine we drink comes
from Vitis vinifera grapes—Chardonnay, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, pretty much any grape you
know—which originally came to us from Europe.
But then why suggest Bordeaux, the haughtiest, snootiest, priciest
wine out there? Short answer: because it isn’t. Most people hear the
word Bordeaux and think of grand châteaus and equally grand wines—
the multi-hundred-dollar Moutons, Haut-Brions, and Pétruses (Pétri?)
of the world.
But Bordeaux is home to more than 6,000 producers, and it’s actu-
ally far easier to find a good, under-$30 Cabernet- or Merlot-based
wine from Bordeaux right now than from Napa Valley, where prices
have skyrocketed in recent years. Affordable red Bordeaux tends to
be less overtly fruity than California Cabernet, more savory, with
autumnal red- and black-currant flavors bolstered by dry-leaf tan-
nins. White Bordeaux, red’s overlooked sibling, is a great hanksgiving
option, too: Typically made from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and
Sémillon grapes, these wines feature bright citrus flavors and viva-
cious acidity, often accented by light vanilla-oak notes.
he other virtue of Bordeaux? Because of its slightly skewed reputa-
tion, you can tell your family you paid $90 a bottle when you really
paid $20, and they’ll actually believe you. Just make sure you take
away your annoying cousin Bob’s phone before he starts trying to
look up whether you’re wrong. (You know, the way he always does,
about everything.) RAY ISLEF
Top W h ite s
2016 CHÂTEAU DU CHAMP DES
TREILLES VIN PASSION BLANC
($13)
An equal-parts blend of biodynami-
cally grown Sauvignon Blanc,
Sémillon, and Muscadelle, this
delicate white comes from a property
owned by Corinne and Jean-Michel
Comme (technical director at the
renowned, and far pricier, Château
Pontet-Canet).2017 CHÂTEAU LA RAME
SAUVIGNON BLANC SEC ($15)
This bright, zesty Sauvignon Blanc–
dominated white from the underrated
Sainte-Croix-du-Mont appellation is
full of fresh grapefruit notes and offers
impressively concentrated flavors
despite its modest price.2016 CLOS DES LUNES LUNE
D’ARGENT ($16)
From vineyards in Sauternes, the
home of Bordeaux’s greatest sweet
wines, this impressive dry white, full of
melon flavors and textural richness, is
made by the winemaking team from
the acclaimed Domaine de Chevalier
in Pessac-Léognan.2015 CLOS FLORIDENE GRAVES
BLANC ($24)
The late Denis Dubourdieu, one of
Bordeaux’s greatest white wine
consultants, founded this estate with
his wife, Florence, back in 1982. Now
it’s run by their children, and the
quality hasn’t ebbed in the slightest—
witness this lemon-grapefruity white,
with its subtle vanilla notes.2015 CHÂTEAU DE FONTENILLE
CÔTES DE BORDEAUX CADILLAC
($19)
Light, toasty oak frames this surpris-
ingly elegant wine’s red-currant
flavors. The estate’s winemaking
history dates back to the 13th century.2015 CHÂTEAU PEYRABON
HAUT-MÉDOC ($20)
Soft, plush tannins and rich, dark fruit,
plus the warmth of the generous 2015
vintage, give this cru Bourgeois
bottling a style that nods toward the
New World (i.e., California) but still
keeps its Bordeaux bona fides.2015 CHÂTEAU DUCLUZEAU ($22)
Bruno Borie, of the famed second-
growth Château Ducru-Beaucaillou,
oversees this estate in Listrac-Médoc.
He brings the same winemaking preci-
sion to bear here as he does at Ducru,
as revealed in this red’s complex black
cherry and spice character.2014 CHÂTEAU MAUVESIN BARTON
($22)
Lilian Barton-Sartorius, of the famed
Barton dynasty, bought this property
in 2011 and effectively brought it back
to life. Daughter Mélanie makes the
wine, which is full of vivid red currant
and cranberry flavors.2014 CHÂTEAU BIAC FÉLIX DE BIAC
($23)
The most affordable bottling from this
stunningly gorgeous property above
the Garonne river in the Cadillac Côtes
de Bordeaux region offers plummy
fruit and a light anise note.2016 CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR
GARDEROSE BORDEAUX ROUGE
($24)
Organic grapes, natural yeasts, and
minimal sulfur push this earthy
Bordeaux to the edge of the natural
wine movement but not so far that it
becomes weirdly funky. Instead, its
vibrant fruit is impossible to resist.2014 CHÂTEAU AUNEY
L’HERMITAGE ($26)
Leafy tobacco and black peppercorn
are the savory aspects that define this
appealingly old-school red, which
comes from a family-owned estate in
Bordeaux’s Graves region.2015 CHÂTEAU BROWN ($33)
A powerful, black-purple wine from a
great Bordeaux vintage, this black
currant–rich bottling comes from the
prestigious Pessac-Léognan appella-
tion just south of the city of Bordeaux.Top Re d s