14 NOVEMBER 2020
EDITOR’SLETTER From the
Home OfficeREASONS FOR HOPE
When you need a shot
of good news in the
arm, check out Pass the
Spatula, a magazine that
students at Food and
Finance High School
in Manhattan created
during the pandemic.
Read more about their
project and other inspir-
ing stories from the food
world in a special section,
“Helping Hands” (p. 31).FOOD & WINE
HOLIDAY RECIPES
We’ve collected more
than 300 of our favorite
recipes from Food & Wine
to help you celebrate the
feasting season for years
to come. Gift it, and treat
yourself while you’re at it.
Order it at magazine
.store/fwholiday.PASTRY COLLAB
F&W alum Kate Heddings
worked with New Orleans
chef Kelly Fields and
pastry legend Claudia
Fleming to bring you
a one-of-a-kind col-
laboration (see “Sweeter
Together,” p. 90). Go
deeper with the re-
release of Fleming’s clas-
sic cookbook The Last
Course, as well as Fields’
new The Good Book of
Southern Baking. Puzzle
fans should also check
out Heddings’ new activ-
ity book Hungry Games,
great for road trips.Subscription Help: foodandwine
.com/myaccount or email us at
[email protected]
or call 1-800-333-6569.TURKEY FRENCH DIPS
I developed the Really Good Turkey Jus recipe on
p. 44 with these killer day-two sandwiches in mind.
They’re inspired by French dips and the warm bollito
sandwiches at the San Lorenzo Market in Florence,
Italy, where meat bobs in flavorful broth before it’s
piled high on slabs of crusty bread. Here’s how my
leftovers sandwich goes down: Slowly warm slicedroast turkey gently in leftover turkey jus mixed with
any reserved drippings from the turkey roasting
pan. Split and toast ciabatta rolls, dip the cut sides
in the warm jus, slather with mayo and Dijon, then
pile on the turkey. Add thinly sliced onions (trust me
on this) and something herbaceous and bound by
olive oil, like a parsley salsa verde or pesto. Serve
with a sidecar of jus for dipping—and go to town.Holiday
RecipesMORE THAN 300 DELICIOUS DISHES TO CELEBRATE THE SEASONTake a BowLET’S TAKE the wayback machine to
1982, when a young Shakespearean actor
named David McCann moved to New
York City to pursue a career in theater.
While working a catering gig, he met
then-F&W entertaining editor W. Peter
Prestcott, who recruited McCann to join
his special events team at Food & Wine.
A natural cook with a vibrant, gentle
soul, McCann soon found his way into
the test kitchen, where he worked until
2019, testing recipes, shopping for ingre-
dients, and washing dishes, whenever
an acting job didn’t lure him away. He
counts staff from every era of the maga-
zine among his friends and has saved
every issue since the fall of 1982, a col-
lection that takes up an entire wall at his
home in Yonkers, New York. You’ll find
cover photos from those back issues
(lately he’s been sharing gems from 1992) on his Instagram account @thisoldchef.
“Feeding people is a performance,” McCann says. “Even though it wasn’t Shakespeare, I
was able to perform for people and serve them food and get applause at the magazine.”
Now it’s time for McCann to take a bow. His simple and elegant root vegetable gratin
(recipe p. 46), enriched with just enough cream and Parmesan, earned him this month’s
cover, his first. For this and so many acts of kindness over the years, we’re proud to salute
him with this well-deserved standing ovation.
Ready for your own applause? We have you covered in this Thanksgiving issue, with
enough trusted recipes and wine recommendations to see that your holiday is a command
performance, no matter what size your crowd or what type of feast you may be planning.
And while you map out your holiday cooking game plan, please also join me in toasting
the Food & Wine staff, who have worked tirelessly from their homes during the past eight
months to produce monthly issues and publish daily stories on the website. We take great
pride and care in the making of these recipes, stories, and photographs for you, and I’m
fortunate and grateful to be a part of the most talented and creative team in food media.
From our homes to yours, happy Thanksgiving.HUNTER LEWIS
@NOTESFROMACOOK
[email protected]photography by RAMONA ROSALES