Food & Wine USA - (11)November 2020

56 NOVEMBER 2020

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Give It a Twirl Angela Garbacz’s vegan babka

is a welcome addition to every holiday table.

THE CASES AT GOLDENROD PASTRIES in Lincoln, Nebraska, are filled with a craveable riot

of color and flavor—cookies studded with rainbow sprinkles sit next to puffy fluffernutter

buns and slabs of thick-cut frosted brownies. Astonishingly, all of these treats are made

without gluten or dairy, and many are vegan or nut-free. Dietary challenges led chef-

owner Angela Garbacz to fall in love with what she calls “diet-inclusive baking” and to

fill her shops and her new cookbook, Perfectly Golden, with treats everyone can enjoy.

Her savory Vegan Pesto Babka relies on almond milk and vegetable oil for richness, while

the pesto leans on fresh herbs, peppery arugula, and plenty of garlic for flavor—trust us,

you won’t miss the butter or the Parm. Her book is filled with recipes like this gorgeous

braided loaf—all with endless variations—guaranteeing something delicious for everyone.

—KELSEY YOUNGMAN

RECIPE FROM

GOLDENROD

PASTRIES

LINCOLN, NEBRASKA

MOST WANTED

minutes. Increase speed to medium; beat

until dough is smooth and supple and starts

to pull away from sides of bowl, 5 to 6 min-

utes. (Dough will be sticky.) Spray a medium

bowl with cooking spray; transfer dough to

bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap; let

stand at warm room temperature until dough

is doubled in size, soft, and fluffy, 40 to 50

minutes.

2. Make the vegan pesto: Place herbs, aru-
   gula, walnuts, garlic, and salt in bowl of a
   food processor. Pulse until finely chopped,
   about 10 pulses. Add olive oil and vinegar.
   Process until mixture resembles a coarse
   paste, about 10 seconds.


3. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work
   surface; roll into a 14- x 8-inch rectangle.
   Spread pesto evenly over dough. Roll up
   dough into a tight log, starting at one long
   side. Using a sharp knife, cut log almost in
   half lengthwise, leaving 1 inch attached at
   one end. Twist the 2 strands of swirled dough
   together with cut sides facing up.


4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9-
   x 5-inch loaf pan with cooking spray. Gently
   press in ends of braided dough to fit length of
   loaf pan; transfer to loaf pan. Cover loosely
   with plastic wrap. Let stand at warm room
   temperature until dough is doubled in size
   and has just risen above edges of pan, 30 to
   40 minutes.


5. Uncover dough, and place in preheated
   oven. Bake until deep golden brown and an
   instant-read thermometer inserted in center
   registers 205°F, 50 to 55 minutes, tenting
   with aluminum foil after 30 minutes if
   needed to prevent excess browning. Let loaf
   cool in pan on a wire rack 10 minutes.
   Remove from pan; let cool completely on
   wire rack, about 1 hour, or serve warm.
   —ANGELA GARBACZ, GOLDENROD PASTRIES,
   LINCOLN, NEBRASKA
   MAKE AHEAD Pesto can be stored in an
   airtight container in refrigerator up to 3 days.

Vegan Pesto Babka

ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN

SERVES 6 TO 8

Peppery baby arugula and buttery walnuts

add rich, savory flavor to the pesto that’s

swirled into this completely vegan babka.

Unsweetened almond milk enriches the

dough, resulting in a moist loaf with a well-

developed crumb.

DOUGH

3 / 4 cup plain unsweetened almond

milk, warmed (about 110°F)

1 (^1 /^4 -oz.) envelope active dry yeast

1 / 4 cup granulated sugar, divided

21 / 2 cups all-purpose flour (about 10^5 / 8

oz.), plus more for work surface

3 / 4 tsp. fine sea salt

1 / 4 cup vegetable oil

Cooking spray

VEGAN PESTO

1 cup packed mixed tender fresh

herbs (such as parsley and basil)

1 cup packed baby arugula

1 / 2 cup walnut halves

3 medium garlic cloves, roughly

chopped

1 tsp. fine sea salt

1 /^3 cup olive oil

1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

1. Make the dough: Stir together almond
   milk, yeast, and 1 tablespoon sugar in
   bowl of a stand mixer. Let stand until
   foamy, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, stir
   together flour, salt, and remaining 3 table-
   spoons sugar in a separate bowl. Attach
   the dough hook attachment to mixer. Add
   vegetable oil to almond milk mixture; beat
   on low speed 5 seconds. Gradually add
   flour mixture, beating on low speed until
   dry ingredients are incorporated, about 3 FO

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