Food & Wine USA - (12)December 2018

GUINEA HEN

113

AFRO-SPICED FRIED

ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 4 HR 40 MIN

SERVES 2 TO 4

Grains of paradise, also known as

melegueta or Guinea pepper, is a

West African spice with a slightly

citrusy, floral burn that gives this

peanut butter– and lime-based mar-

inade lingering heat. The marinade’s

heavy use of spice (plus an extra

dose in the coating) turns the crust

aromatic and dark when frying.

1 (2^1 / 2 - to 3-lb.) guinea hen or

chicken

1 / 2 cup vegetable oil, plus more

for frying

1 / 4 cup creamy peanut butter

2 tsp. lime zest plus 2 Tbsp.

fresh lime juice (from 2

limes), divided

2 Tbsp. garlic powder

2 Tbsp. onion powder

2 Tbsp. smoked paprika

2 red Thai chiles, stemmed and

finely chopped

2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt,

divided

1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon,

divided

1 Tbsp. finely ground grains of

paradise, divided

2 cups white rice flour (about

(^101) / (^2) oz.)

1. To cut guinea hen into 8 pieces,
   first remove the leg quarters: Tug
   one leg away from body, and insert
   a knife tip into joint that connects
   thigh to backbone. Separate leg
   quarter from backbone, and repeat
   on opposite side. Turn each quarter
   skin side down, and locate the white
   membrane line that runs between
   the leg and thigh. Use line as a guide
   to cut through the joint separating
   leg and thigh. Next, using sharp
   scissors or poultry shears, cut
   through rib bones along both sides
   of backbone, and remove back-
   bone. (Save backbone to make
   stock, or fry along with rest of hen
   for a cook’s treat.) Turn breast por-
   tion bone side up, and use tip of
   knife to uncover and remove the
   thin, rigid breastbone. Cut down
   middle (where breast bone was) to
   create 2 breast halves. Cut each
   breast half crosswise on an angle,
   resulting in one piece with wing
   attached and one without.


2. Whisk together oil, peanut butter,
   and lime juice in a medium bowl
   until smooth. Stir in garlic powder,
   onion powder, paprika, chiles, 1
   tablespoon salt, 2 teaspoons cinna-
   mon, 1 teaspoon grains of paradise,
   and lime zest. Transfer to a large
   ziplock plastic bag; add guinea hen

J.J. Johnson

CHEF AT HENRY, NEW YORK CITY, AND

AUTHOR OF BETWEEN HARLEM AND HEAVEN

pieces. Seal bag, pressing out air,

and turn until hen pieces are well

coated. Chill 4 to 8 hours.

3. Pour oil to a depth of 1 inch into a
   deep, heavy skillet, and heat over
   medium to 350°F. Set a wire rack
   inside a rimmed baking sheet.
   Whisk together rice flour, 1 table-
   spoon salt, remaining 2 teaspoons
   grains of paradise, and remaining 1
   teaspoon cinnamon in a pie plate or
   8-inch square baking dish. Remove
   guinea hen pieces from marinade
   (do not scrape off excess), and add
   to seasoned flour; discard mari-
   nade. Turn to evenly coat guinea
   hen pieces; shake off excess sea-
   soned flour.


4. Using tongs, carefully lower 4
   coated guinea hen pieces into hot
   oil. Fry, turning every 3 minutes,
   until pieces are very dark and crisp
   and a thermometer inserted in
   thickest portion registers 165°F, 8
   to 12 minutes. Transfer to prepared
   rack to drain, and sprinkle with^1 / 2
   teaspoon salt. Repeat with remain-
   ing 4 guinea hen pieces and remain-
   ing^1 / 2 teaspoon salt. Serve hot.
   WINE Earthy, robust Monastrell:
   2016 Enrique Mendoza La
   Tremenda

“When I serve fried guinea hen, I call it simply ‘fried bird,’ because it truly

is the best fried bird. It’s so forgiving and full of flavor. I also really like the

history of this recipe and the connections that it makes. You’ve got this

African bird, so loved by the French that some people call it the French bird,

and I’m putting chiles, cinnamon, and peanut butter on it and frying it in a

Southern tradition. It just makes so much sense to me.”

DECEMBER 2018

FOOD STYLING: ALISON ATTENBOROUGH; PROP STYLING: CARLA GONZALEZ-HART