4.2.3.1.TIPS FOR MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR PARTY FOWL
DECEMBER 2018GAME BIRDS AT A GLANCE
At NYC’s The Beatrice Inn,
F&W Best New Chef alum
Angie Mar flambés roasted
duck (recipe p. 140) tableside.
Here’s how to do it at home.
PAIGE GRANDJEAN
TOOLS NEEDED A small sauce-
pan, handled Pyrex or
heatproof measuring cup with
a spout, and utility lighter.- Wipe the roasting pan clean
of drippings and grease. Set
on a heatproof surface in a
well-ventilated area, far from
flammable elements. Ensure
nothing is hanging above pan.
If you hit bone, wiggle the
knife around until it slices
easily through the joint.
Repeat with the second leg.- If desired, separate each
leg into two pieces (thigh and
drumstick): Locate the joint,
and cut through the cartilage,
trying not to chop the bone. - Remove the breast:
Stabilize the bird with a meat
fork or tongs, and position the
knife to one side of breast-
bone. Slice down, doing your
best to guide the knife tip
along the breastbone and
down along the rib cage to
remove one side of the breast
in one piece. Repeat with
second breast half. - Carve the breast: Set the
breast on the cutting board,
and slice crosswise into thick
or thin pieces, as desired.
No matter what type of bird
you’ve roasted, carving
follows the same progression.
TOOLS NEEDED A sharp, thin-
bladed boning knife and a
sturdy carving board with a
trough to catch the juices
- Remove the legs: Take hold
of a drumstick with one hand;
with the other hand, use the
knife to cut through the skin
that connects the leg to the
breast. Apply pressure to the
leg to push it back and expose
the ball-and-socket joint
where the thigh connects to
the body. Keep bending the
leg away until you can clearly
see the joint. (A duck or goose
requires a lot of force to pry
the legs away from the body;
don’t be timid.) Once you
expose the joint, use the tip of
the knife to slice through the
cartilage to free the leg piece.
Secure loose garments and
hair. Keep a lid nearby to
smother flames if needed.- Measure 80- or 100-proof
alcohol (120 proof and higher
can be dangerous) into a
handled Pyrex or heatproof
cup with a spout. Never pour
from the bottle. Dampen any
herbs stuffed into the bird’s
cavity with water. - Heat a dry, small, high-
sided, long-handled saucepan
over medium just until warm,
about 30 seconds. Remove
pan from heat, turn off the
burner, and set pan on
heatproof surface. (Do not
hold pan while lighting.)- Carefully pour alcohol into
warm pan. - Immediately ignite a utility
lighter a few inches above hot
alcohol (igniting the fumes,
not the liquid). - Slowly pour flaming alcohol
over bird. Do not carry the
flaming dish from kitchen to
table—allow flames to extin-
guish on their own before
transporting.
GUINEA HEN
AVERAGE WEIGHT About 3 lb.
SERVES 2 to 4
COOKING METHODS Bread and
fry in parts, roast or braise
whole, or marinate and grill.
FYI The dark leg and thigh
meat of a guinea hen remain
juicy when slow-cooked, but
the delicate breast meat can
dry out if not basted with fat.
SOURCE D’Artagnan,
dartagnan.com; Joyce Farms,
joyce-farms.com
QUAIL
AVERAGE WEIGHT About 4 oz.
SERVES 1 (1 to 2 quail per
person)
COOKING METHODS Sauté,
broil, pan-roast, or grill.
FYI Quail are often sold semi-
boneless for ease of cooking
and eating. Use a knife and fork
to tackle the boneless breast
and nibble the legs and thighs.
SOURCE Manchester Farms,
manchesterfarms.com;
dartagnan.comPOUSSIN
AVERAGE WEIGHT 1 to 1¼ lb.
SERVES 1
COOKING METHODS Roast
whole, or spatchcock and
grill, broil, or pan-roast.
FYI These tender little
birds (also called spring
chickens) are best cooked
with high heat until just
cooked through, leaving a
hint of pink in the juices.
SOURCE dartagnan.com;
joyce-farms.comDUCK
AVERAGE WEIGHT About 5 lb.
SERVES 2 to 4 (lower-than-
average yield because of high
ratio of fat and bone to meat)
COOKING METHODS
Slow-roast to render the fat
and preserve juices, or cook
parts separately, cooking the
breast over high heat and
slow-cooking the legs.
FYI Breast meat is best when
not cooked past medium.
SOURCE dartagnan.com120CARVE LIKE A PRO
FLAMBÉ SAFELY
ILLUSTRATIONS: MATTHEW CASERTA