Food & Wine USA - (12)December 2018

(Comicgek) #1

130 DECEMBER 2018


Sweet Potato and Feta
Bourekas
PHOTO P. 123
ACTIVE 1 HR; TOTAL 1 HR 40 MIN; SERVES 8

Bourekas are crisp, savory little parcels
filled with anything from vegetables
and cheese to ground meat. Inspired by
his grandmother’s recipe, Michael
Solomonov’s version is stuffed with sweet
potato, Bulgarian feta, dill, and olives. At
Zahav, Solomonov prepares them with
housemade laminated dough, but this
recipe calls for prepared puff pastry,
which makes it easy to make at home.

1 small sweet potato (about 8 oz.),
peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 / 3 cup crumbled Bulgarian feta
cheese
1 /^4 cup roughly chopped fresh dill
1 Tbsp. finely chopped kalamata
olives
1 / 2 tsp. kosher salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten, divided
1 (17.3-oz.) pkg. frozen puff pastry
sheets, thawed
2 tsp. water
Sesame seeds


  1. Place sweet potato cubes in a small
    saucepan; add cold water to cover by 2
    inches. Bring to a boil over high; reduce
    heat to medium-low, and simmer until
    potatoes are fork-tender, about 10 min-
    utes. Drain; transfer to a medium bowl.
    Let cool completely, about 30 minutes.
    Add feta, dill, olives, salt, and 2 table-
    spoons of egg; mash mixture with a fork
    until almost creamy (some lumps are OK).

  2. Preheat oven to 400°F. On a lightly
    floured surface, roll 1 pastry sheet into a
    12-inch square. Cut sheet into 16 (3-inch)
    squares. Transfer squares to a parchment
    paper–lined baking sheet. Whisk together
    2 teaspoons water and remaining beaten
    egg (about 2 tablespoons) in a small bowl.
    Spoon a scant 2 teaspoons sweet potato
    mixture onto center of each square; brush
    edges lightly with egg wash. Fold each
    square over to make a triangle. Using the
    tines of a fork, crimp edges to seal. Trans-
    fer to a second parchment paper–lined
    baking sheet. Repeat rolling and filling
    procedures with remaining puff pastry
    sheet and remaining sweet potato mix-
    ture. Lightly brush tops with remaining
    egg wash; sprinkle with sesame seeds.
    Refrigerate on baking sheets 15 minutes.

  3. Bake on same oven rack in preheated
    oven until golden brown, about 25 min-
    utes, rotating baking sheets (front to
    back) halfway through baking. (If pans
    don’t fit on same rack, bake separately.)


Spiced Leg of Lamb
PHOTO P. 127
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 11 HR; SERVES 8

Reem Kassis’ mother, Nisreen, would
serve leg of lamb to guests because it was
“a sign of utmost respect.” Large cuts of
meat were reserved for special occasions
and celebratory gatherings. Kassis roasts
it low and slow until the meat is nearly fall-
ing apart then finishes it at a higher tem-
perature to crisp the outside.

8 large garlic cloves, divided
3 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. ground dill seeds
2 tsp. sumac
1 tsp. Nine-Spice Mix (recipe at right)
1 / 2 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 (4^1 / 2 - to 5^1 / 2 -lb.) bone-in leg of lamb
(shank end)
3 fresh bay leaves
1 / 2 cup water, plus more as needed


  1. Mince 4 of the garlic cloves. In a small
    bowl, whisk minced garlic, pomegranate
    molasses, olive oil, salt, coriander, cumin,
    dill, sumac, Nine-Spice Mix, and cayenne
    until a smooth paste forms.

  2. Using a paring knife, cut slits all over
    lamb. Rub spice mixture over lamb, press-
    ing into slits. Smash remaining 4 garlic
    cloves. Tuck bay leaves and smashed gar-
    lic into 4 of the slits. Transfer lamb to a
    wire rack set in a large roasting pan.
    Refrigerate, uncovered, at least 6 hours
    or up to overnight. Let lamb stand at room
    temperature 1 hour before roasting.

  3. Preheat oven to 425°F. Roast lamb,
    uncovered, in preheated oven until spice
    mixture just begins to brown, about 15
    minutes. Remove lamb from the oven,
    and reduce oven temperature to 325°F.
    Add^1 / 2 cup water to roasting pan, and
    cover tightly with aluminum foil. Return
    lamb to oven, and roast at 325°F until ten-
    der and almost falling apart, about 3
    hours, adding more water if necessary.
    (Water in pan may evaporate too quickly.)

  4. Increase oven temperature to 425°F.
    (Do not remove pan from oven.) Uncover
    roasting pan, and continue to roast until
    top is browned, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer
    lamb to a cutting board; tent with foil, and
    let rest 15 minutes. Pull meat into large
    chunks and serve.
    WINE Spicy, cool-climate Syrah: 2016
    Ex Post Facto


Hashweh (Spiced-Lamb-and-
Rice Pilaf)
PHOTO P. 127
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN; SERVES 8

Hashweh, which literally means “stuffing,”
is often used to fill proteins like chicken
and lamb. Studded with spiced lamb and
crisp nuts, the fragrant pilaf is a meal in
itself. For special occasions, Reem Kassis
tops it with melt-in-your-mouth Spiced
Leg of Lamb (recipe at left).

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
11 / 2 Tbsp. Nine-Spice Mix (recipe
follows)
11 / 2 lb. ground lamb or 80% lean
ground beef
21 / 3 cups uncooked jasmine rice
4 cups chicken stock or lower-sodium
chicken broth
1 / 2 cup pine nuts, toasted
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup whole blanched almonds,
toasted


  1. Heat butter and olive oil in a large
    enameled cast-iron casserole or Dutch
    oven over high. Once butter melts and
    starts to sizzle, add Nine-Spice Mix, and
    cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant,
    about 1 minute. Add lamb, and cook,
    breaking up meat with a wooden spoon,
    until browned, about 8 minutes.

  2. Stir rice into lamb mixture until grains
    are coated in drippings, and cook over
    high, stirring often, until rice is toasted
    and all of lamb drippings are absorbed,
    about 4 minutes. Stir in stock; bring to a
    boil, scraping bottom of pan to loosen
    browned bits. Reduce heat to low, cover,
    and simmer until rice is tender and liquid
    is absorbed, about 12 minutes.

  3. Using a fork, fold in pine nuts, and sea-
    son with salt; remove from heat. Cover
    and let steam 10 minutes. Fluff rice with a
    fork, and transfer to a serving platter.
    Scatter almonds over top, and serve
    immediately.


Nine-Spice Mix
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN
MAKES ABOUT^3 / 4 CUP

As a child, Reem Kassis would walk
through Jerusalem’s old city with her
mother, where they’ d buy whole spices to
make this fragrant, all-purpose blend.
Toasting the spices before grinding brings
out their fruity notes, resulting in an
intensely aromatic mixture.
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