Food & Wine USA - (12)December 2018

(Comicgek) #1

RESORT


DESERT VIEWS


Tucson’s JW Marriott Starr Pass


Resort & Spa weaves its luxuries


into the Sonoran Desert. The


lobby’s soaring glass walls and


the adjoining patio let guests take


in saguaro-studded hills and a


valley full of city lights. A walkway


bridges an undeveloped corridor


left for wildlife, including javelinas


that play on the lawn during our


morning coffee. A free guided hike


winds through the desert of the


surrounding county park at sunrise.


And a gathering every evening


opens with the tale of Pancho


Villa winning over his future


father-in-law in a tequila-drinking


contest. At the end, guests raise


a complimentary shot of tequila


infused with fruit on-site.


FINE DINING


MOTHER OF ALL MOLES


Our crew was ready to nominate


chef Ruben Monroy as Tucson’s


ambassador of culinary heritage.


His restaurant, Elvira’s, began


with his grandmother in 1927 in


Nogales, Mexico. Ruben turned


it into a Hollywood outpost,


catering for films starring George


Clooney, Benicio Del Toro and


JLo. He opened a Tucson location


in 2016 with a ceiling installation


of 7,000 pieces of blown Mexican


glass. But Ruben’s greatest


artistry shows in the menu’s


anchor: moles. The Mole Negro,


which he dubs The King of Moles,


is an opus of a sauce with 34


ingredients, including pasilla,


chilhuacle and cascabel chiles;


almonds; and chocolate. Nearly


matching the mole’s complexity


of flavor is a signature predinner


experience: a shot of smoky


mezcal chased with orange slices


and powder made from the


gusano “worms” that occupy


agave plants.


“MOLE IS THE EPITOME OF MEXICAN


CULTURE, IDENTITY AND CUISINE.”
 RUBEN MONROY, CHEFOWNER AT ELVIRA’S

SPECIAL PARTNER SECTION
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