62 DECEMBER 2018
HANDBOOK
Bright, Bitter, Brilliant Why we keep
coming back for more of chef Traci
Des Jardins’ wintry salad
WHEN TRACI DES JARDINS, the chef-owner of Jardinière in
San Francisco and a 1995 F&W Best New Chef, cooks at
home, she likes to keep it simple. his bright winter salad,
which was on the restaurant’s original menu and returns
seasonally, showcases that simplicity with thoughtfully
paired produce: he bitter greens are offset by tangy
orange juice. Sour kumquats balance sweet dates. Pecorino
adds texture and sharp flavor, and salt and pistachios bring
in crunch. Sherry vinegar offers tartness while shallots
have just the right amount of spice. “We’re always looking
for that balance between sweet, acid, and salt,” Des Jardins
says. “I think that’s the magic.” NINA FRIEND
RECIPE FROM
JARDINIÈRE
SAN FRANCISCO
MOST WANTED
Winter Chicory Salad with
Kumquats and Date Dressing
TOTAL 20 MIN; SERVES 6
A mix of young chicories, like endive, fri-
sée, and radicchio, creates pops of wel-
come color and earthy bitterness to cut
through the winter cold. Use paper-thin
slices of unpeeled clementines if kum-
quats are not available.
1 / 2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
3 Tbsp. fresh orange juice
1 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot
2 cups kumquats, sliced into^1 / 8 -inch
rounds, seeds removed, divided
1 / 2 cup dried pitted dates, thinly sliced,
divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 / 2 tsp. black pepper, divided
4 Belgian endive leaves, sliced (about
1 cup)
2 cups bright yellow frisée leaves
(from 1 large head, use yellow
leaves only)
2 cups packed fresh arugula
1 cup packed fresh mizuna
1 cup sliced Treviso or Chioggia
radicchio
1 / 2 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf
parsley leaves
1 Tbsp. fresh mint leaves, cut into
thin strips
1 / 2 cup toasted salted pistachios
4 oz. aged pecorino Romano cheese,
shaved with a Y-shaped vegetable
peeler (about 2 cups)
- Whisk together olive oil, sherry vinegar,
orange juice, shallot, 1 tablespoon kum-
quats, and 1 tablespoon dates until
blended. Season with^1 / 2 teaspoon salt
and^1 / 4 teaspoon pepper. - Place remaining kumquats and dates in
a large bowl. Reserve and set aside 6
tablespoons vinaigrette. Drizzle remain-
ing vinaigrette over kumquat mixture,
and, using your hands, pull dates apart
into individual slices. Add endive, frisée,
arugula, mizuna, radicchio, parsley, and
mint; gently toss to coat. Season with
remaining^1 / 2 teaspoon salt and remaining
(^1) / 4 teaspoon pepper.
- To serve, divide salad evenly among 6
plates; drizzle 1 tablespoon of the
reserved vinaigrette over top and around
each salad. Garnish with pistachios and
shaved pecorino Romano. PHOTOGRAPHY: GREG DUPREE; FOOD STYLING: CYD RAFTUS MCDOWELL; PROP STYLING: THOM DRIVER