DECEMBER 2018BOTTLE SERVICE
ALMOST EVERY CHAMPAGNE house makes what’s
termed a prestige cuvée or, more evocatively, a tête
de cuvée—the “head” of the cuvée. Some are widely
known, some are primarily the province of connois-
seurs, but all represent the very best the house has
to offer. Typically they draw on fruit from grand cru
vineyards, and they are usually, though not always,
vintage dated. Expect gorgeous aromatics, lingering
flavors, and incredible complexity. hese bottlings
are great in a flute or coupe, but you can also serve
them in a classic white wine glass—it will only
enhance their remarkable characteristics.
Best Champagnes to Pop
NV AR LENOBLE GRAND CRU
BLANC DE BLANCS CHOUILLY
BRUT ($50)
Chouilly, the northernmost of the six
grand cru villages of the Côte des
Blancs, typically produces the richest
Champagnes of that group. This rare
bottling from Lenoble reveals that in
its luscious texture and aromas of
ginger and roasted nuts.2006 BILLECART-SALMON CUVÉE
NICOLAS FRANÇOIS BRUT ($100)
Family-owned Billecart-Salmon is best
known for its excellent nonvintage
brut rosé bottling, but their top wines
are even more compelling. The peach-
citrus flavors of this cuvée, a blend of
60 percent Pinot Noir and 40 percent
Chardonnay, ride along on acidity as
taut as a plucked guitar string.Head of the Class Tête de
cuvée Champagnes are
the world’s top bubblies—
the perfect gift for
someone truly special.
WHAT TO DRINK NOW
NV LANSON EXTRA AGE BRUT ($105)
Atypically for a prestige cuvée,
Lanson’s Extra Age blends three top
vintages together; for this release, the
2000, 2002, and 2004. The older
wines add earthy and caramel notes to
the nose and richness to the texture;
the younger ones keep the flavors
fresh and bright, in tune with the
house’s typically graceful style.2007 DOM RUINART BLANC DE
BLANCS BRUT ($160)
Ruinart, founded in 1729, is not as
high-profile as some houses, but its
Chardonnay-driven Champagnes are
inarguably among the best. Case in
point: the newly released ’07 Dom
Ruinart. It’s graceful and lacy, with
high-toned citrus flavors and this
cuvée’s distinctive floral aroma.2006 TAITTINGER COMTES DE
CHAMPAGNE BLANC DE BLANCS
BRUT ($216)
A standout among standouts, the
2006 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de
Blancs has the kind of perfect balance
that makes you sit back and say,
“Wow.” Think creaminess, bright
acidity, soft pear and citrus blossom
notes, and a long and toasty finish.2004 CHARLES HEIDSIECK BLANC
DE MILLÉNAIRES ($250)
Heidsieck fans have been waiting a
long time for this: the first vintage of
this sublime cuvée since the still-
gorgeous 1995. The 2004 vintage
matched abundance in the vineyards
with excellent quality, something
that’s clear from this honeyed, expan-
sive wine, which is all lemon pastry
and dusty spice notes.2004 BOLLINGER R.D. ($300)
Bollinger is known for full-bodied, rich
Champagnes, and the new vintage of
R.D. (which stands for “recently
disgorged”) is no exception.
Fermented in neutral oak barrels—
unusual in Champagne, though
standard at Bollinger—and aged for 13
years in the bottle, this remarkable
wine is dense with red apple, smoke,
and honeysuckle notes, yet lifted by
thrillingly bright, fine acidity.67