68 DECEMBER 2018
BOTTLE SERVICE
THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY’S distinctive climate and geology have made it
renowned for Pinot Noir, and its Chardonnays can be equally impressive—
two varieties that also happen to be the classic ingredients of great sparkling
wine. But until now, only a few wineries here—notably Argyle and Soter—had
devoted themselves to bubbles. Sparkling wine production is complex and
costly, and buying a bottling line for bubbly is out of the reach of most of
the small wineries that have made Oregon’s name. But in the past few
years, entrepreneurs have started “custom crush” facilities devoted to spar-
kling wine production. he result? A burgeoning world of top-quality
bubbles, from wineries already known for impressive still wines. he holi-
days are the perfect time to explore them.NV A TO Z WINEWORKS BUBBLES
ROSÉ ($18)
Watermelon-fruity and sealed with
a crown cap, this bright pink
sparkler is made with the same
process used for Prosecco.2016 SOKOL BLOSSER BLUEBIRD
CUVÉE ($25)
An unusual blend of grapes from
Oregon and Washington, this
lemon-limey sparkler is a new
cuvée from acclaimed Willamette
Valley producer Sokol Blosser.2016 DIVISION WINEMAKING
CRÉMANT DE PORTLAND BRUT
URBANIQUE ($35)
This zingy, apple-inflected bottling
is 100 percent Chenin Blanc; that,
plus the term crémant, are nods to
the sparkling winemaking
traditions of France’s Loire Valley.2014 RAPTOR RIDGE BRUT ROSÉ
HARBINGER VINEYARDS ($50)
Raptor Ridge’s Scott Shull is
known for superb single-vineyard
Pinot Noirs; he uses one of those
sources for this rich, black
cherry–inflected bottling.2015 ELK COVE LA BOHÈME BRUT
ROSÉ ($50)
Winemaker Adam Campbell is one
of Oregon’s top Pinot talents. His
skill shows through in this creamy,
lightly toasty wine.2014 ROCO RMS ($65)
After making wine at Argyle for
over two decades, Rollin Soles left
in 2013 to found ROCO. His subtle,
elegant flagship cuvée reflects all
those years of experience.2014 SOTER MINERAL SPRINGS
BRUT ROSÉ ($65)
Tony Soter’s hilltop winery is an
Oregon must-visit, and his precise
Mineral Springs Brut Rosé, with its
bright berry flavors, is one of the
state’s very best bottles of bubbly.2007 ARGYLE EXTENDED TIRAGE
BRUT ($75)
Argyle’s extended tirage wines are
aged for multiple years on the lees
(leftover yeasts from fermenta-
tion) in the bottle, making them
remarkably complex and luscious.Best Oregon
Sparklers to ShopOregon Bubbles Up Vintners in the
Willamette Valley are now making
sparkling wine to rival Champagne.
WHAT TO DRINK NOW