Food & Wine USA - (12)December 2020

DECEMBER 2020 107

Vegan Coconut-Ginger
Caramels

ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 55 MIN, PLUS 8
HR STANDING; MAKES 90 CARAMELS

Thai chile brings complex, fruity heat to
these fragrant caramels; substitute a
pinch of crushed red pepper, if desired. To
reduce sticking, use kitchen shears to cut
caramels into bite-size pieces; spray
shears with cooking spray for extra
protection.

1 (13.5-oz.) can unsweetened
coconut milk (such as Chaokoh),
well shaken

11 / 2 cups thinly sliced unpeeled ginger

1 medium-size fresh red Thai chile,
halved lengthwise, or a pinch of
crushed red pepper

1 / 4 cup coconut oil (solid at room
temperature), plus more for
greasing baking dish

1 tsp. fine sea salt

1 tsp. vanilla extract

2 cups granulated sugar

2 / 3 cup light corn syrup

90 (4- x 3-inch) pieces parchment
paper, plus more for baking dish

1. Combine coconut milk, ginger, and
   Thai chile in a small saucepan. Cook over
   low, stirring occasionally, until bubbling
   around edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove
   from heat. Let stand at room tempera-
   ture, uncovered, 2 to 6 hours, or let come
   to room temperature, cover, and refriger-
   ate overnight. Reheat coconut milk mix-
   ture over low, stirring occasionally, until
   thin and pourable, 3 to 5 minutes. Pour
   through fine wire-mesh strainer into a
   bowl; discard solids.
   2. Lightly grease an 8-inch square baking
   dish with coconut oil. Line with parch-
   ment paper, allowing at least 2 inches
   of overhang on all sides. Lightly grease
   parchment paper; set baking dish aside.
   3. Return infused coconut milk to sauce-
   pan. Add coconut oil, salt, and vanilla.
   Keep warm over low until ready to use,
   stirring occasionally to incorporate
   melted oil.
   4. Cook sugar and corn syrup in a large
   high-sided saucepan over medium, swirl-
   ing pan often, until mixture is dark amber
   in color, 16 to 20 minutes. Remove from
   heat. Carefully add coconut milk mixture,
   whisking constantly. (Syrup will bubble up
   vigorously.) Return mixture to heat over
   medium; cook, whisking constantly, until
   a candy thermometer registers 248°F
   (firm-ball stage), 4 to 8 minutes. (Syrup
   temperature will drop when coconut
   milk mixture is added but will climb when
   returned to heat.) Immediately pour mix-
   ture into prepared baking dish. Let cool,
   uncovered, at room temperature, at least
   8 hours or up to overnight.
   5. Using parchment paper overhang as
   handles, lift caramel sheet from baking
   dish; discard parchment paper. Using
   kitchen shears, cut caramel sheet into 15
   (a b o u t^1 / 2 -inch-wide) rows. Cut each row
   into 6 (about 2-inch-long) pieces to yield
   90 caramels. Center 1 caramel along 1
   long edge of 1 parchment piece. Roll to
   wrap caramel; twist ends to seal. Repeat
   with remaining caramels and parchment
   paper. —PAIGE GRANDJEAN
   MAKE AHEAD Caramels can be stored in
   an airtight container at room temperature
   up to 1 month.

Totally Tubular

Texture

Whether you like

it gooey-chewy or

crackly-crunchy,

texture plays a huge

role when it comes to

enjoying your favorite

candy. Chewy candies

like caramels and gum-

mies owe their smooth,

satisfying texture to

interlopers. Known in

the candy circuit as

“interfering agents,”

these ingredients (such

as corn syrup, fats, and

acids) alter candy tex-

ture by butting in and

preventing sugar crys-

tals from re-forming

in an orderly fashion.

Acidic ingredients,

such as lemon juice

and cream of tartar,

damage the chemical

bonds, preventing the

molecules from re-

attaching and causing

graininess. Fats like

butter and cream also

interfere with crystal-

lization, keeping cara-

mels soft and satiny.

On the crunchy end

of the spectrum, the

Pistachio-Rose Brittle

on p. 108 has a surpris-

ing ingredient to credit

for its crackly texture:

air.

While some candies,

like saltwater taffy, are

aerated manually,

honeycomb toffee

and brittle are aerated

through the magic

of chemistry. Adding

alkaline baking soda to

naturally acidic sugar

produces thousands

of tiny bubbles; these

carbon dioxide pockets

get trapped in the solid-

ifying candy as it cools,

creating a sponge-like,

porous texture.

IN CANDYMAKING, FAT OF ANY KIND HINDERS CRYSTALLIZATION,

RESULTING IN A SOFTER TEXTURE. FOR THESE GINGER- AND

CHILE-SPIKED CARAMELS, PLANT-BASED FAT FROM COCONUT

REPLACES THE TYPICAL BUTTER, RESULTING IN CREAMY, CHEWY

CARAMELS THAT ARE PERFECT FOR ANYONE ON YOUR GIFT LIST.