Food & Wine USA - (12)December 2020

(Comicgek) #1
DECEMBER 2020 89

POP,

FIZZ,

FEASTIN THE HILLS OF EMILIA-ROMAGNA, A LAMBRUSCO-
MAKING FAMILY UNCORKS THE HOLIDAY SEASON WITH A JOYFUL MEAL—AND PLENTY OF GREAT SPARKLING WINE.
BY RAY ISLE RECIPES BY ALICIA LINIPHOTOGRAPHY BY CEDRIC ANGELES

124 DECEMBER 2020


POP, FIZZ, FEAST from p. 97

124 DECEMBER 2020


cheese pieces in food processor until small
crumbles form, about 25 seconds. Add to
cookie crumbs in bowl; set aside.


  1. Using a spoon, scrape flesh from cooled
    squash into a medium bowl; discard skins.
    Working in batches, spoon squash flesh into
    a fine wire-mesh strainer set over a sink.
    Using a rubber spatula, gently press squash
    to remove as much liquid as possible. Return
    squash to bowl; mash and stir until smooth.
    Stir in cookie mixture, salt, and nutmeg.
    Store in an airtight container in refrigerator
    until ready to use, up to 3 days.

  2. Make the pasta dough: Mound flour on a
    clean work surface, and make a well in cen-
    ter. Add eggs to well, and use a fork to gently
    beat them; slowly incorporate flour into eggs
    until a batter forms. Using a bench scraper,
    scrape remaining flour up and into batter.
    Continue using bench scraper to cut flour
    into batter until a shaggy mass forms. Using
    your hands, bring shaggy dough together.
    Knead until pasta dough is smooth and
    bounces back when pressed, 10 to 15 min-
    utes. Wrap in plastic wrap; let rest at room
    temperature 1 hour.

  3. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with
    parchment paper. Unwrap pasta dough, and
    divide evenly into 8 (^1 / 4 -pound) portions.

  4. Place 1 dough portion on a lightly floured
    work surface; cover remaining dough por-
    tions with plastic wrap. Roll dough portion
    on work surface into an oval shape until
    dough is thin enough to see through (about


(^1) / 16 -inch thick). Using a fluted pastry cut-
ter, cut dough sheet into 6 (4^1 / 2 - x 3-inch)
rectangles.



  1. Spoon a scant 1 tablespoon butternut
    squash filling on middle of each rectangle.
    Working with 1 dough rectangle at a time,
    place rectangle on work surface with long
    edge facing you. Fold dough in half diago-
    nally over filling to form a triangle. Gently
    press out all of the air around filling. Bring
    together the 2 opposite corners of the
    triangle so they meet; press points to seal
    together, making a traditional tortelli shape.
    Place shaped tortelli in a single layer on
    prepared baking sheets. (Keep tortelli cov-
    ered with a clean kitchen towel as you make
    them.) Repeat with remaining dough and
    filling to yield 48 assembled tortelli.

  2. Bring a large pot of generously salted
    water to a boil over high. Add half of the
    assembled tortelli to boiling water, and gen-
    tly stir once. Return to a gentle boil over high;
    cook, stirring occasionally, until tortelli are al
    dente, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon
    or a spider, remove tortelli from water, and
    hold over pot a few seconds to drain as much
    water as possible. Transfer drained tortelli to
    a large plate. Repeat cooking process with
    remaining tortelli, transferring the second
    batch to a large serving platter. If desired,
    return first batch of cooked tortelli to boiling


water, and cook 1 minute to reheat; drain and
transfer to a second large platter.


  1. While tortelli cook, add^1 / 4 cup water to
    a small saucepan; bring to a boil over high.
    Reduce heat to low; gradually add butter
    pieces, and whisk until mixture is emulsi-
    fied and thickened (do not let sauce boil).
    Remove from heat; stir in salt.

  2. Drizzle butter sauce evenly over tortelli
    on serving platters; sprinkle with shredded
    cheese, and garnish with sage.
    MAKE AHEAD After resting, dough may be
    stored in refrigerator up to 1 day. Let come to
    room temperature before rolling. To freeze
    shaped, uncooked tortelli, place in an even
    layer on a parchment paper–lined baking
    sheet. Freeze until solid, about 30 minutes.
    Transfer to ziplock plastic freezer bags, and
    freeze up to 1 month.


Bollito Misto (Italian Mixed
Boiled Meats)
PHOTO P. 95
ACTIVE 2 HR 20 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN
SERVES 8

A mix of brisket, short ribs, and chicken cook
in simmering water until perfectly tender,
creating a deeply flavored and easily
skimmed broth, or brodo. Keeping the cote-
chino separate allows it to cook more gently,
preserving its consistency and keeping the
final broth clear.

6 qt. water
1 large yellow onion, root end trimmed
1 medium celery stalk
1 medium carrot
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 (1^1 /^2 -lb.) flat-cut beef brisket or veal
breast, trimmed
1 lb. bone-in beef short ribs
1 (1^1 / 2 - to 2-lb.) half chicken
1 (about 1^1 / 2 -lb.) cotechino (Italian pork
garlic sausage), pricked all over using
tip of a paring knife
Caper-Cornichon Salsa Verde (recipe
follows)
Potato-Parmesan Puree (recipe
follows)
Mixed pickled vegetables, for serving


  1. Combine 6 quarts water, onion, celery,
    carrot, and salt in a very large 12- to 16-quart
    stockpot; bring to a boil over high. Add bris-
    ket and short ribs; return to a boil over high,
    skimming off any foam and fat that rise to
    the surface. Reduce heat to medium-high;
    gently simmer, skimming occasionally, 1
    hour and 30 minutes. Add chicken; cook,
    skimming occasionally, until brisket and
    short ribs are very tender when pierced with
    a paring knife and chicken easily pulls away
    from the bone, 30 minutes to 1 hour. If any


Butternut Squash Tortelli
PHOTO P. 94
ACTIVE 2 HR 55 MIN; TOTAL 5 HR 5 MIN
SERVES 12 TO 14

Butternut squash, roasted until tender and
golden brown, offers a sweet and earthy bal-
ance to the creamy butter sauce draping the
pasta. Crushed amaretti cookies add a wel-
come almond flavor and a lightly crunchy
texture to the creamy filling. This generous
recipe is easily halved. For a shortcut, substi-
tute wonton wrappers for the fresh pasta and
reduce cook time as needed for al dente
results.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH FILLING
3 lb. butternut squash (about 2 medium
squash), halved lengthwise and
seeded
11 / 2 tsp. olive oil
3 oz. amaretti cookies (such as Asturi)
(about 26 cookies)
4 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
(preferably aged), cut into small
pieces (about 1 cup)
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 / 4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
PASTA DOUGH
5 cups all-purpose flour (about 21^1 / 4 oz.),
plus more for work surface
6 large eggs
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
1 / 4 cup water
1 cup cold unsalted butter (8 oz.), cut
into pieces
3 / 4 tsp. kosher salt
Finely shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese
Fresh sage leaves


  1. Make the butternut squash filling: Pre-
    heat oven to 350°F. Brush cut sides of
    squash halves evenly with oil. Arrange
    squash halves, cut sides down, on a large
    rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment
    paper. Roast in preheated oven until tender
    when pierced with a paring knife, 40 to 45
    minutes. Remove from oven. Flip squash
    halves over; let cool 30 minutes.

  2. Meanwhile, process cookies in a food pro-
    cessor until fine crumbs form, about 15 sec-
    onds. Transfer to a medium bowl. Process

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