DECEMBER 2020 89
POP,
FIZZ,
FEASTIN THE HILLS OF EMILIA-ROMAGNA, A LAMBRUSCO-
MAKING FAMILY UNCORKS THE HOLIDAY SEASON WITH A JOYFUL MEAL—AND PLENTY OF GREAT SPARKLING WINE.
BY RAY ISLE RECIPES BY ALICIA LINIPHOTOGRAPHY BY CEDRIC ANGELES
124 DECEMBER 2020
POP, FIZZ, FEAST from p. 97
124 DECEMBER 2020
cheese pieces in food processor until small
crumbles form, about 25 seconds. Add to
cookie crumbs in bowl; set aside.
- Using a spoon, scrape flesh from cooled
squash into a medium bowl; discard skins.
Working in batches, spoon squash flesh into
a fine wire-mesh strainer set over a sink.
Using a rubber spatula, gently press squash
to remove as much liquid as possible. Return
squash to bowl; mash and stir until smooth.
Stir in cookie mixture, salt, and nutmeg.
Store in an airtight container in refrigerator
until ready to use, up to 3 days. - Make the pasta dough: Mound flour on a
clean work surface, and make a well in cen-
ter. Add eggs to well, and use a fork to gently
beat them; slowly incorporate flour into eggs
until a batter forms. Using a bench scraper,
scrape remaining flour up and into batter.
Continue using bench scraper to cut flour
into batter until a shaggy mass forms. Using
your hands, bring shaggy dough together.
Knead until pasta dough is smooth and
bounces back when pressed, 10 to 15 min-
utes. Wrap in plastic wrap; let rest at room
temperature 1 hour. - Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with
parchment paper. Unwrap pasta dough, and
divide evenly into 8 (^1 / 4 -pound) portions. - Place 1 dough portion on a lightly floured
work surface; cover remaining dough por-
tions with plastic wrap. Roll dough portion
on work surface into an oval shape until
dough is thin enough to see through (about
(^1) / 16 -inch thick). Using a fluted pastry cut-
ter, cut dough sheet into 6 (4^1 / 2 - x 3-inch)
rectangles.
- Spoon a scant 1 tablespoon butternut
squash filling on middle of each rectangle.
Working with 1 dough rectangle at a time,
place rectangle on work surface with long
edge facing you. Fold dough in half diago-
nally over filling to form a triangle. Gently
press out all of the air around filling. Bring
together the 2 opposite corners of the
triangle so they meet; press points to seal
together, making a traditional tortelli shape.
Place shaped tortelli in a single layer on
prepared baking sheets. (Keep tortelli cov-
ered with a clean kitchen towel as you make
them.) Repeat with remaining dough and
filling to yield 48 assembled tortelli. - Bring a large pot of generously salted
water to a boil over high. Add half of the
assembled tortelli to boiling water, and gen-
tly stir once. Return to a gentle boil over high;
cook, stirring occasionally, until tortelli are al
dente, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon
or a spider, remove tortelli from water, and
hold over pot a few seconds to drain as much
water as possible. Transfer drained tortelli to
a large plate. Repeat cooking process with
remaining tortelli, transferring the second
batch to a large serving platter. If desired,
return first batch of cooked tortelli to boiling
water, and cook 1 minute to reheat; drain and
transfer to a second large platter.
- While tortelli cook, add^1 / 4 cup water to
a small saucepan; bring to a boil over high.
Reduce heat to low; gradually add butter
pieces, and whisk until mixture is emulsi-
fied and thickened (do not let sauce boil).
Remove from heat; stir in salt. - Drizzle butter sauce evenly over tortelli
on serving platters; sprinkle with shredded
cheese, and garnish with sage.
MAKE AHEAD After resting, dough may be
stored in refrigerator up to 1 day. Let come to
room temperature before rolling. To freeze
shaped, uncooked tortelli, place in an even
layer on a parchment paper–lined baking
sheet. Freeze until solid, about 30 minutes.
Transfer to ziplock plastic freezer bags, and
freeze up to 1 month.
Bollito Misto (Italian Mixed
Boiled Meats)
PHOTO P. 95
ACTIVE 2 HR 20 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN
SERVES 8
A mix of brisket, short ribs, and chicken cook
in simmering water until perfectly tender,
creating a deeply flavored and easily
skimmed broth, or brodo. Keeping the cote-
chino separate allows it to cook more gently,
preserving its consistency and keeping the
final broth clear.
6 qt. water
1 large yellow onion, root end trimmed
1 medium celery stalk
1 medium carrot
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 (1^1 /^2 -lb.) flat-cut beef brisket or veal
breast, trimmed
1 lb. bone-in beef short ribs
1 (1^1 / 2 - to 2-lb.) half chicken
1 (about 1^1 / 2 -lb.) cotechino (Italian pork
garlic sausage), pricked all over using
tip of a paring knife
Caper-Cornichon Salsa Verde (recipe
follows)
Potato-Parmesan Puree (recipe
follows)
Mixed pickled vegetables, for serving
- Combine 6 quarts water, onion, celery,
carrot, and salt in a very large 12- to 16-quart
stockpot; bring to a boil over high. Add bris-
ket and short ribs; return to a boil over high,
skimming off any foam and fat that rise to
the surface. Reduce heat to medium-high;
gently simmer, skimming occasionally, 1
hour and 30 minutes. Add chicken; cook,
skimming occasionally, until brisket and
short ribs are very tender when pierced with
a paring knife and chicken easily pulls away
from the bone, 30 minutes to 1 hour. If any
Butternut Squash Tortelli
PHOTO P. 94
ACTIVE 2 HR 55 MIN; TOTAL 5 HR 5 MIN
SERVES 12 TO 14
Butternut squash, roasted until tender and
golden brown, offers a sweet and earthy bal-
ance to the creamy butter sauce draping the
pasta. Crushed amaretti cookies add a wel-
come almond flavor and a lightly crunchy
texture to the creamy filling. This generous
recipe is easily halved. For a shortcut, substi-
tute wonton wrappers for the fresh pasta and
reduce cook time as needed for al dente
results.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH FILLING
3 lb. butternut squash (about 2 medium
squash), halved lengthwise and
seeded
11 / 2 tsp. olive oil
3 oz. amaretti cookies (such as Asturi)
(about 26 cookies)
4 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
(preferably aged), cut into small
pieces (about 1 cup)
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 / 4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
PASTA DOUGH
5 cups all-purpose flour (about 21^1 / 4 oz.),
plus more for work surface
6 large eggs
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
1 / 4 cup water
1 cup cold unsalted butter (8 oz.), cut
into pieces
3 / 4 tsp. kosher salt
Finely shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese
Fresh sage leaves
- Make the butternut squash filling: Pre-
heat oven to 350°F. Brush cut sides of
squash halves evenly with oil. Arrange
squash halves, cut sides down, on a large
rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment
paper. Roast in preheated oven until tender
when pierced with a paring knife, 40 to 45
minutes. Remove from oven. Flip squash
halves over; let cool 30 minutes. - Meanwhile, process cookies in a food pro-
cessor until fine crumbs form, about 15 sec-
onds. Transfer to a medium bowl. Process