76 DECEMBER 2020
BOTTLE SERVICEWINES FROM $25 TO $65
NV JEAN-BAPTISTE
ADAM CREMANT
D’ALSACE BRUT ROSÉ
($27)
Champagne runs at least
$35 a bottle, so why not
spring for this brioche-
scented sparkler from the
Alsace region? The Adam
family uses 100% Pinot
Noir for this lively cuvée.2018 CHÂTEAU
CLIMENS ASPHODÈLE
($42)
The first vintage of this
wine from Sauternes pro-
ducer Château Climens
bursts from the glass with
honeysuckle and lemon
blossom. It’s exquisitely
balanced now and should
age impressively, too.2017 ALAIN GRAILLOT
CROZES-HERMITAGE
($43)
This benchmark northern
Rhône Syrah is a stunner.
Think deep blackberry
fruit with savory green
peppercorn and black
olive nuances, juicy acid-
ity, and fine, gripping
tannins.2018 RIDGE LYTTON
SPRINGS ($45)
Ridge’s devotion to
organic farming and heri-
tage vineyards has long
resulted in many of Cali-
fornia’s greatest Zinfan-
dels. This one is all about
earthy boysenberries and
spice; give it an hour in a
decanter for best effect.2016 TRIMBACH PINOT
GRIS RÉSERVE ($30)
This complex white’s
honeysuckle, quince, and
spice flavors feel quintes-
sentially Alsatian. From
one of the region’s top
producers, it’s full-bodied
and juicy but has bright
acidity—an elegant white
for wintertime drinking.LUSTAU RARE
OLOROSO EMPERATRIZ
EUGENIA SHERRY
($32/500 ML.)
This beautifully layered
oloroso from a solera
started in 1921 offers
concentrated flavors of
toasted hazelnuts, cara-
melized citrus peel, and
dark chocolate.2009 BODEGAS
FAUSTINO GRAN
RESERVA RIOJA ($35)
Believe it or not, 2009
is the current vintage of
Faustino’s Gran Reserva,
and it was worth the wait.
It’s got classic Rioja red-
cherry compote, vanilla,
and earth notes, plus a
seamlessly silky texture.2017 SMITH-MADRONE
SPRING MOUNTAIN
DISTRICT
CHARDONNAY ($40)
Why doesn’t Smith-
Madrone get more atten-
tion? Its ageworthy Cab-
ernets are superb, and
this Chardonnay, with its
lemon zest and marzipan
notes, is a knockout.2018 MY FAVORITE
NEIGHBOR ($50)
Have a neighbor you’re
fond of? This Cabernet-
based red from Paso
Robles is a great way to let
them know. Intense black
fruit, leather, and olive
notes; gripping tannins—
you might give them some
big steaks, too.2017 CLOS DU CELLIER
AUX MOINES GIVRY
PREMIER CRU ($65)
This finely cut Givry is a
pleasure. Savory tea leaf
and blueberry aromas
give way to ripe raspberry
flavors, with fine tannins
wrapping up the finish.
It’s a great present for
any Burgundy lover.GET MODERN
Rounded Borough
wine glasses (4 for $50)
and a cool Soft Machine
corkscrew ($40) set a
hip tone for holiday
parties. (sto re
.moma.org)