TRAVEL82 DECEMBER 2020
MOXIE BREAD CO., LOUISVILLE, CO
Organic heirloom wheat milled in-house is the backbone
of the extremely fine work being done at this Boulder-area
find, where the croissants are as refined as the loaves are
ruggedly handsome. (The hearty, seeded frøbrød boule
is practically smørrebrød-ready.) Owner Andy Clark sum-
moned the energy to open a second location during the
middle of the pandemic; he is also a founding member of
the Colorado Grain Chain, an organization that advocates
for the revival of ancient and heritage grains in the state.
moxiebreadco.comNIGHT MOVES BREAD + PIE, BIDDEFORD, ME
Can a loaf of sourdough have terroir, just like wine? If yes,
Kerry Hanney’s would be Maine in bread form. One of the
region’s most forward-thinking bakers, she leans heavily
on local grains and mills them herself. And her loaves,
packed with fruit and nuts or subtly flavored with maple
syrup, are essential breakfast slices—just add some local
butter. nightmovesbread.comSUB ROSA BAKERY, RICHMOND, VA
A wood-fired oven is the canvas on which siblings Evrim
and Evin Dogu prefer to paint. Throw in lots of seriously
good grains from around the region, and you have the
bakery Virginia’s capital city didn’t realize it deserved. The
children of Turkish immigrants, the Dogus nod to their
heritage with lamb-stuffed borek and a truly special fast-
baked pide topped with rosemary and sea salt.
subrosabakery.comWAYFARER BREAD & PASTRY, SAN DIEGO
People who thought they were doing Tartine grad Crystal
White a favor warned her that San Diego didn’t care
about good food. She’s awfully glad she didn’t listen to
them—and so are the citizens of San Diego. Her addictive
pastries and giant-size sourdough loaves aren’t likely to
be the first thing most people who visit this beachside city
are looking for, but they ought to be. wayfarerbread.comBETTER BREAD FOR
EVERYONE
Even before this year,
baking already had been
enjoying a huge, butter-
drenched moment.
People around the coun-
try were learning about
grains and how they’re
grown, stored, and sup-
plied. They were discov-
ering just how much work
goes into better bread,
into the best breads—and
also how much things
like skilled labor, good
butter, and new com-
mercial ovens cost. Now
many people are tasting
truly great, naturallyleavened breads for the
first time in their lives.
But for my part, I’ve
also learned that our
country has a bread
problem: Too often,
the very best becomes
something of a luxury
item. And with bread,
does it matter if it’s
amazing when many
people can’t afford a
loaf? A project based
out of The Bread Lab at
Washington State Uni-
versity is asking exactly
that question and as
a result is challenging
the industry to offer at
least one high-quality,affordable loaf to their
customers every single
day. (Visit thebreadlab
.wsu.edu for more on
the project.) Meanwhile,
around the country,
there’s more good work
going on, too. The grow-
ing demand for in-house
milling capabilities has
put even more makers
to work, while a renewed
focus on regional and
heritage grains is helping
smaller farms thrive and
keeping money in local
economies. We may be
at the beginning of a new,
and more equitable, era
of baking.RIGHT: Elmore Mountain Bread is a
wood-fired bakery that also mills its
own flour. BELOW: Hewn’s Neighbor
Loaf helps regional food banks.PHOTOGRAPHY (FROM TOP): OLIVER PARINI, JOHN LEE FOR THE COOKBOOKHERITAGE BAKING, PUBLISHED BY CHRONICLE BOOKS