Food & Wine USA_The Italian Table 2019

(Comicgek) #1
Pasta with Radicchio
and Pancetta
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 30
MIN; SERVES 4

Using a nonreactive pan to
cook the radicchio will help
keep some of the chicory’s
crimson color.

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin
olive oil
3 garlic cloves, smashed
1 medium (about 8 oz.)
red onion, cut
lengthwise into^1 / 2 -in.
slices

(^1) / 4 cup dry red wine
4 oz. diced pancetta
(about 1 cup)
2 small heads radicchio
(about^3 / 4 lb.), trimmed,
cored, quartered, and
cut into 1-in.-wide strips
(about 6 cups)
(^1) / 4 tsp. crushed red pepper
(^1) / 4 tsp. granulated sugar
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black
pepper
(^1) / 2 lb. dried pappardelle,
torcetti, or gemelli
pasta
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
(^1) / 2 cup heavy cream
Shaved Parmigiano-
Reggiano cheese, for
serving



  1. Heat oil in a large, heavy,
    nonreactive skillet over
    medium. Add garlic; cook,
    stirring often, until fragrant
    and golden, about 2 minutes.
    Discard garlic. Add onion;
    cook, stirring often with a
    wooden spoon, until soft-
    ened, about 4 minutes. Add
    wine and simmer until almost
    completely reduced, about
    2 minutes. Add pancetta;
    cook, stirring often, until the
    fat has rendered, about 4
    minutes. Add radicchio, red
    pepper, and sugar; fold mix-
    ture with tongs to combine
    and coat radicchio with oil,
    about 2 minutes. Season to
    taste with salt and pepper.
    2. Meanwhile, cook pasta
    according to package direc-
    tions; drain pasta. Melt butter
    in pasta pot over medium.
    Return pasta to pot, and add
    heavy cream, shaking pot and
    gently stirring to avoid tearing
    noodles, until pasta is coated,
    about 1 minute. Season with
    salt and pepper. Spoon pasta
    onto 4 plates, and top with
    radicchio mixture. Top with
    shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano,
    and serve immediately.
    —CHRISTOPHER HIRSHEIMER;
    MELISSA HAMILTON


Pasta alla Norma
ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR
15 MIN; SERVES 8

With its tomato sauce, silky
eggplant, and ricotta cheese,
this Sicilian pasta dish repre-
sents the height of summer.
Italian nonna Roberta Rizzo
prefers corn oil for frying
because of its mild flavor and
high smoke point.

6 1 / 2 lbs. (32 total) plum or
Roma tomatoes,
quartered
1 lb. small sweet onions
(such as cipollini), cut
into 2-in. pieces (about
3 cups)
1 Tbsp. fine sea salt

(^1) / (^2) cup packed basil leaves,
plus more for garnish
2 1 / 2 cups corn oil
4 lbs. eggplant, peeled
and cut into 1-in. cubes
(about 20 cups)
2 tsp. fine non-iodized
salt, divided
2 lbs. uncooked penne
rigate
1 1 / 2 oz. ricotta salata
cheese, grated with a
Microplane grater
(about 1 cup)



  1. Combine tomatoes and
    onions in a large stockpot
    over medium. Cook, stirring
    constantly, until tomatoes
    begin to release their juices,
    about 5 minutes. Cover and
    cook, stirring occasionally,
    until tomatoes are fully
    broken down and very soft,
    about 30 minutes.
    2. Using a spider or slotted
    spoon, transfer tomatoes and
    onions to a large heatproof
    bowl; reserve liquid in pot.
    Place a food mill over stock-
    pot. Pass tomatoes and
    onions through food mill into
    stockpot, discarding tomato
    skins and other solids. Stir
    in fine sea salt and reduce
    heat to medium-low. Cover
    partially, and cook, stirring
    occasionally, until thickened
    and reduced to 7 cups, about
    1 hour and 15 minutes. Stir in
    basil leaves; cook 5 more
    minutes. Remove from heat
    and cover to keep warm.
    3. While tomato sauce cooks,
    heat corn oil in a high-sided
    skillet or large Dutch oven
    over medium-high, about
    5 minutes. Add 3 to 4 cups
    eggplant to skillet in a single
    layer. (Eggplant should be
    almost fully submerged in oil.)
    Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon
    non-iodized salt. Fry, stirring
    occasionally, until eggplant
    cubes are golden brown and
    soft to the touch with a crispy
    exterior, 8 to 10 minutes.
    Using a spider or slotted
    spoon, transfer eggplant to a
    large plate to drain; reserve
    drained oil. Repeat with a
    second batch of eggplant
    and^1 / 2 teaspoon non-iodized
    salt. Repeat with a third
    batch of eggplant and^1 / 4
    teaspoon non-iodized salt.
    Fry remaining eggplant,
    in batches if needed, adding


(^1) / 8 teaspoon non-iodized
salt to each batch.



  1. Cook pasta in a large pot
    of salted water according
    to package directions for
    al dente. Drain. Add pasta
    to tomato sauce; stir to coat.
    Fold in fried eggplant and
    drained oil.

  2. Transfer pasta to a large
    shallow bowl. Top with ricotta
    salata, and garnish with fresh
    basil leaves. —ROBERTA RIZZO


BUDGET-


FRIENDLY WINES


Below are some of F&W’s
top Italian wine picks—all
under $15 a bottle.

2014 Badia a Coltibuono
Cetamura Chianti:
a Sangiovese with tangy
berry flavors.
2014 Bibi Graetz
Casamatta: lush,
energetic plum and
cherry flavors.
2016 Valle Reale Vigne
Nuove Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo: unoaked red
brimming with juicy red
fruit and food-friendly
acidity.
2009 Bibi Graetz Bianco
di Casamatta: a vibrant,
citrusy Vermentino.
2014 Michele Chiarlo Le
Orme Barbera d’Asti
Superiore: great house
red with energetic cherry
and licorice flavors.
2015 Di Majo Norante
Sangiovese Terre degli
Osci: lush, dark, and
fruity red; packed with
flavor and complexity.
2015 Cusumano Nero
D’Avola Sicilia: Bright and
intensely fruity, with ripe
plum and coffee flavors.
2014 Fontanafredda
Briccotondo Barbera:
delivers loads of spicy,
supple black cherry
flavors.
2012 Cantina Santadi
Grotta Rossa Carignano
del Sulcis: plush, sexy,
cherry-infused wine.
2015 Tasca d’Almerita
Regaleali Nero d’Avola:
juicy Sicilian red.

52 THE ITALIAN TABLE

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