Food & Wine USA_The Italian Table 2019

(Comicgek) #1
Smoked Gouda
Carbonara
TOTAL 30 MIN; SERVES 6

Carbonara is an Italian pasta
dish from Rome made with
egg, hard cheese, guanciale
(an Italian cured meat made
from pork jowl), and pepper.
In this clever play on carbon-
ara, F&W’s Justin Chapple
uses smoked Gouda cheese,
adding a deliciously smoky
flavor to this silky, hearty, and
totally delicious pasta.

1 lb. spaghetti
5 large egg yolks
1 large egg
1 cup (4 oz.) finely
shredded smoked
Gouda, plus more
for serving
Kosher salt and black
pepper
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin
olive oil
6 oz. slab bacon, finely
diced

(^3) / 4 tsp. crushed red pepper



  1. In a large pot of salted
    boiling water, cook pasta until
    al dente. Drain, reserving
    1 cup of the cooking water.

  2. In a large bowl, beat egg
    yolks with whole egg, 1 cup of
    Gouda,^1 / 2 teaspoon salt, and
    2 teaspoons black pepper.
    Very gradually whisk in^1 / 2 cup
    reserved cooking water to
    temper the eggs.

  3. Meanwhile, in the large pot,
    heat olive oil. Add bacon and
    cook over moderate heat until
    rendered but not crisp, 5 to 7
    minutes. Add pasta, crushed
    red pepper, and^1 / 4 cup
    reserved pasta cooking water.
    Cook, tossing, until pasta is
    coated, 1 to 2 minutes.
    Scrape pasta mixture into
    large bowl and toss vigorously
    until creamy, 1 to 2 minutes;
    add more cooking water if
    needed. Season with salt and
    pepper. Transfer pasta to
    bowls and serve, passing
    more Gouda at the table.
    —JUSTIN CHAPPLE
    WINE Smoky, intense Pinot
    Noir: 2015 J. Hofstatter
    Meczan.


Clams Carbonara
TOTAL 40 MIN; SERVES 6

Boston chef Matt Jennings’s
briny pasta combines two
beautiful things: rich carbon-
ara and spaghetti prepared
with New England clams.

2 lbs. razor or littleneck
clams, scrubbed
Kosher salt and pepper
1 lb. spaghetti
1 large egg, plus 4 large
egg yolks

(^3) / 4 cup freshly grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese, plus more for
serving
Pinch of freshly grated
nutmeg
8 oz. pancetta, cut into
(^1) / 4 -in. dice
1 medium-size yellow
onion, halved and thinly
sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly
sliced
(^1) / 2 cup finely chopped
parsley leaves
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter



  1. In a large pot, bring^1 / 2 inch
    of water to a boil. Add clams,
    cover, and steam over
    moderately high heat until
    just opened, 5 to 7 minutes.
    Remove pot from heat.
    Using a slotted spoon,
    transfer clams to a rimmed
    baking sheet; discard any
    that don’t open.

  2. Strain cooking liquid
    through a cheesecloth-lined
    sieve into a large bowl. Wipe
    out pot and return cooking
    liquid to it. Add enough water
    to pot until three-fourths
    full and bring to a boil.
    Generously salt the water,
    add spaghetti, and cook until
    al dente. Drain, reserving
    1 cup pasta water.

  3. Meanwhile, remove clams
    from their shells; discard the
    shells. Thickly slice clams.
    In a small bowl, whisk egg
    with egg yolks,^3 / 4 cup cheese,
    and nutmeg.
    4. Heat a large skillet over
    moderate heat. Add pancetta
    and cook, stirring occasion-
    ally, until lightly browned and
    most of the fat is rendered,
    about 10 minutes. Using a
    slotted spoon, transfer
    pancetta to a plate; leave
    fat in skillet.
    5. Add onion and garlic to
    skillet and cook over moder-
    ate heat, stirring occasionally,
    until softened, about 5
    minutes. Add pancetta,
    clams, and spaghetti and stir
    to coat, about 1 minute.
    Remove skillet from heat and
    slowly drizzle in egg mixture,
    tossing, until incorporated.
    Add reserved pasta water,
    chopped parsley, and butter
    and toss to coat; season with
    salt and pepper. Divide pasta
    among bowls and serve,
    passing more cheese at the
    table. —MATT JENNINGS
    WINE White: floral, lightly
    honeyed 2015 Feudi di San
    Gregorio Fiano. Red: fresh,
    juicy 2015 Massolino Barbera
    d’Alba.



CLAMS


CARBONARA


60 THE ITALIAN TABLE

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