Bloomberg Businessweek - USA (2021-02-08)

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The spicerackis gettinga refreshacrosstheU.S.ashomecooks

spendmoretimeintheirkitchen.SalesofMcCormick& Co.,

oneoftheworld’slargestpurveyorsofseasoningblends,

rose5%in 2020 comparedwith2019,to$5.6billion.

Thisrenewedfocusonculinarybasicshasdriveninterest

in cobaneros,thechilesfrominandaroundthecityofCobán

in centralGuatemala.Theburnishedredflakescanbeusedin

a widerangeofdishes;theyadda brightfruitinessandtanta-

lizingspicinessunlikethestraightforward,one-dimensional

heatofstandardcrushedredpepper.

Thehistoryofthecobanerodatestotheearlyagrarian

societiesofthepreclassicMayaneraaround 2000 B.C.“Other

chilesthataren’tasgoodhavebecomebetterknown,”says

EthanFrisch,co-founderofspiceimporterBurlap& Barrel.

Unlikehabaneros,whicharegrownacrossLatinAmericaand

the U.S.,cobanerosareprimarilyharvestedinthegeograph-

icallyisolatedhighlandrainforest.Thisarea,andGuatemala

FOOD Bloomberg Pursuits

asa whole,hasyettogetitsculinarydueabroad.

Frisch,however,saysthecobanero’stimeisnow.He

startedimportingthemtotheU.S.in2018,andthe$8bot-

tlesareroutinelyamonghiscompany’stop-fivesellers.He

getshissupplyfroma farmernamedDonAmilcarinCobán.

(Amilcar’sdaughterMeyllinPerreirausesthechilestomake

a terrificall-purposesauce;seerecipeabove.)“Ioriginally

wenttoseehimforcardamom,”Frischsays.Buthelovedthe

homegrownchilessomuch,hebroughtback 20 pounds of

them in a duffel bag. “They sold out immediately.”

Although cobaneros are sometimes smoked, Burlap &

Barrel’s are sun-dried, which brings out warm, toasty notes.

Connie Chung, chef and co-owner of the fast-casual Chinese

restaurant Milu in New York, uses them to give flavorful heat

to her vibrant chile crisp sauce, which she sells in jars and

spoons over fried chicken nuggets. “I hate spicy food that’s

just spicy and nothing else,” she says. “This brings fruiti-

ness and smokiness, too.” Robert Valle started working with

them when he was the executive chef at Diner in Brooklyn,

N.Y., adding them to bean dishes. Now he’s become adept

at using them to replace Thai chiles and in Italian food at

home. “They’re supremely adaptable for different cuisines,”

he says.

At Majka Pizzeria & Bakery in Sacramento, chef and

owner Chutharat Sae Tong sprinkles the chile flakes on

several pizzas, including one with corn, lime, and cilantro.

She’s experimenting with cobanero in a citrus pound cake

and other desserts. “It’s got definite spice,” she says. “But

it’s forgivable. It doesn’t scar you.” <BW>

Cobanero chiles from

Guatemala can no longer be

ignored. By Kate Krader

Photograph by Naila Ruechel

Sweet Heat

COBANEROSAUCE

Thisintenserecadois

especiallypopularfor

braisingporkinCobán.

Ina largeskillet,roast

2 poundsoftomatoes

overmediumheat

untilsoftandpartially

charred.Repeat

theprocesswith

10 tomatillos, 4 garlic

cloves,and 2 large

halvedonions.Add

charredingredients

and¼cupcobanero

chileflakestoa blender

andpureeuntilsmooth.

Makesabout1 quart.

Ina largepot,heat

a littlevegetableoil.

Addsauce;cookover

highheat,stirring

untilthickened,about

5 minutes.Season

withsalt.Addmeat,

vegetables,orother

stewingredients;

simmeruntil

fullycooked.

INSIDER INGREDIENT