The Times Magazine - UK (2021-01-30)

30 The Times Magazine

CHICKEN WITH GRAPES,

RED WINE AND CHESTNUTS

SERVES 3

PREPARATION TIME: 20 MINUTES. COOKING TIME: 50 MINUTES

This chicken dish uses fresh chestnuts so it’s one to save for when they

are in season. As soon as I see chestnuts in the shops (from November

to February), this dish pops straight into my head.

• 9 fresh chestnuts • 1 organic or free-range chicken, about 1.5 kg,
  or 1kg chicken thighs • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 100ml olive oil


• 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped • Half a Spanish onion, finely chopped • 1 stick of
  celery, finely chopped • 8 sage leaves • 25ml brandy • 200ml red wine


• 30 grapes (red or green, whatever is available)

1 Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Cut the chestnuts in half with a

sharp knife and throw them into the boiling water. Cook for 10 minutes.

Drain and leave to cool. Use a pair of pliers to squeeze the chestnut

halves – the skin and shell should come clean away.

2 If you are using a whole chicken, joint it into 8 pieces and then cut

any large joints in half to give you 10-12 pieces. Season generously.

3 Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based pan over a medium to high

heat and add the chicken pieces. Fry on all sides until golden, about

15 minutes. Add the garlic and peeled chestnuts. After 1 minute add the

chopped onion and celery. Cook, stirring, for 10 minutes until the onion

and celery have softened and turned golden.

4 Add the sage leaves, brandy and red wine and flambé the pan.

Use a lighter or long matches to set light to the alcohol as soon as you

add it to the pan. Reduce until there is no liquid left and then add

200ml water. Taste and add more seasoning and then add the grapes.

Reduce the heat and leave to simmer for 20 minutes.

BRAISED PORK CHEEKS

SERVES 4

PREPARATION TIME: 20 MINUTES. COOKING TIME: 2½-3½ HOURS

Pork cheeks are a sublime cut, lovely and tender when properly cooked

• no bones, just delicious meat. I can’t remember a time when I didn’t
  have them on the menu. Customers love them as much as I do.


• 1kg pork or beef cheeks • 2 tsp salt • 2 tbsp flour • 100ml olive oil • 1 onion,
  roughly chopped • 6 garlic cloves, peeled • 3 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped


• 1 stick of celery, chopped • 2 bay leaves • 6 sprigs of thyme


• Quarter of a cinnamon stick • 1 clove • 5 black peppercorns • 3 tomatoes,
  chopped • 175ml Pedro Ximénez sweet sherry • 175ml red wine • 1 beef stock cube

1 Season the cheeks with 1 tsp salt and dust lightly with the flour.

2 Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based casserole over a high heat

and add the pork cheeks. Fry for 3-4 minutes on each side. Remove

from the pan and set aside.

3 Put the onion, garlic cloves, carrot and celery into the same pan and

fry until dark golden, about 10 minutes. Add the bay leaves, thyme,

dried spices and the chopped tomatoes and cook for about 5 minutes,

until the juices from the tomatoes have reduced down.

4 Return the seared cheeks to the pan and flambé: add the sherry and

red wine and light quickly using a lighter or long matches. Add the

remaining 1 tsp salt and, when the liquid has reduced by about

two thirds, stir in the beef stock cube along with 1 litre water. Bring

to the boil and cook at a fast simmer for 30 minutes.

5 Reduce the heat to low and leave to simmer gently for at least

2 hours, even up to 3 hours, to become really tender.

Omar’s note If you don’t want to prepare a side dish, just chuck some

scrubbed new potatoes into the pan for the last hour of cooking.

FOR MEAT EATERS