The Washington Post Magazine - USA (2021-02-14)

1. Whisk broom


2. Moved over


3. Missing bubble


4. Thicker tape


5. Reversed


6. Blue handle


7. No holes


8. Extended


9. Missing vise grip


10. Longer handle


11. Bigger mallet


12. Lost cord

KEY TO THE PREVIOUS SECOND GLANCE FEB. 7 SOLUTION TO PUZZLE “MAKING THE LEAP,” FEB. 7

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ORIGINAL SECOND

GLANCE PHOTO:

WASHINGTON POST

READER RONALD A.

STUP

a label on a carryout box, say both of Henry Smith’s children. “I don’t

care,” says Smith-Davis, laughing at the memories of people trying to

pass off her food as home cooking. “As long as they keep getting it from

me!”

A second branch of the cafe was opened in 1997 in Oxon Hill, Md., by

Jermaine and onetime sports and entertainment manager Bernard

Brooks Jr. Did I hit the offshoot on an off day? A computer glitch

resulted in a delayed online order, for which a server apologized with an

offer of a gratis dessert and drink. I didn’t mind the wait, as the storefront

entertains customers with music outside. Alas, hits from Michael

Jackson and Stevie Wonder — a patron of the U Street carryout —

couldn’t overcome the salty flat salmon cakes, black from the grill;

meatloaf with an aftertaste of canned corn beef hash; or oddly sweet

collard greens. Salvaging the meal were those tender corn muffins, warm

from the oven even after 30 minutes in the car, and a couple of crunchy

fried chicken wings, ignited with flame-red hot sauce.

I can understand why Henry’s Soul Cafe sells about 100,000 pies a

year. The smooth filling of the signature revels in nutmeg, ginger, vanilla

and orange, albeit in amounts that let the sweet potato shine. (The thin

crust is an adequate commercial product.) It wasn’t until talk show host

Wendy Williams reached out to the Obama White House and asked

about his preferences that the owners discovered the former president

had eaten their bestseller, and more than once.

Catering is a big part of the Smith family business. A central kitchen

on Alabama Avenue SE employs the majority of Henry’s 40 or so

workers. Clients have included the Wizards, the Capitals, church groups

and D.C.’s homeless.

Henry’s Soul Cafe was never about Henry Smith making a lot of

money, says his son, who remembers his father letting some customers

buy food on credit and taking meals to folks in need. “He didn’t have a

bank of wealth, but a bank of heart.”

The original carryout is free of pictures of the boldfaced names who

have enjoyed the fruits of the family’s labors over the operation’s long

run. Knowing celebrities have enjoyed your food is nice, Jermaine says,

but his father said steady customers were his bread and butter.

“ ‘The really famous people are the regulars who come in,’ ” Jermaine

remembers his dad telling him. “ ‘And I don’t have enough space on the

wall’ ” for all their photographs.

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